Motorway toll booth at Courmayeur, then carry on towards the Mont Blanc Tunnel. Turn right towards the Val Ferret and carry on until you come to the large Planpincieux square.

The Grandes Jorasses have always been a symbol of great mountaineering and heroic conflicts to conquer one of the most impressive rock faces in the Alps, otherwise known as the Parete Nord. The easiest way to the top is on the Italian side (south) but be careful, this is no easy excursion on a glacier. While being defined as normal, it has all the characteristics of a grand course, undoubtedly bringing great satisfaction, but not to be underrated.

Day one
From Planpincieux, near the bars and restaurants, head towards the centre of the village following signs for the Boccalatte Refuge. After passing close to a small church, climb up alongside a pine forest. Beyond the forest, the trail heads down slightly to the right, passes a river and heads back up again. The route continues along a channel crossed over by another river that creates some small waterfalls. A little further on, continue along rocky terrain until you come to a steel stairway (about ten metres long), above which there is a stretch equipped with fixed rope. From here, carry on along the moraines of glaciers (here the actual path alternates with rocky stretches) and you will come to and pass a snowfield where you should turn left. This is where the most technical stretch begins, that is, the upward climb of a rocky spur where the refuge stands. In about twenty minutes over rocks equipped with fixed ropes, you will come to the Boccalatte Refuge terrace.

Day two
From the refuge, once passed a short rocky stretch (fixed ropes) you will come to the glacier between moraines and snowfields. Keeping to the left of the Rognon de la Bouteille, you will come to the base of the Reposoir rocks. Climb up the entire rocky spur until you come to the edge of a large frozen basin, known as the Couloir Whymper. Cross it towards the right more or less on flat ground as far as the base of the Rochers Whymper, that can easily be climbed thanks to a fixed rope. You then come to the grand Plateau under the serac at the summit. Cross it in its entirety as far as the right edge where the rocks start that head down towards Punta Walker. From here you can reach the peak’s snowy cap.
Descent: down the upward itinerary.

This itinerary requires experience of high mountains and it is recommended that you get a mountain guide to accompany you.