Mountaineering - a few routes

From the Torino Refuge, cross the Gigante Pass plateau and this will take you to the Aiguilles Marbrées base (to be avoided on the left); carry on up the glacier in the direction of the dente; one reference point is the clear snowy stream that cuts through the rocky crag under the Gengiva. This will take you onto the upper ridge of this rocky buttress heading directly up the snowy stream (45°) or staying on the easy rocks on the left bank. From this secondary ridge you can follow a system with gentle stretches that is not difficult, of streams and broken rocks mixed with the snow, moving obliquely to the right until you come to the main ridge and the base of a large gendarme, that should be circumvented on the right. Follow the ridge of rocks mixed with snow with some logical detours until you come to the snowy basin of the Gengiva, at the base of the southern rock face on the Dente del Gigante.
From here, climb down a few metres to the left and start into the road through cracks (spit) on a large detached pillar. Circumvent it and climb back up another 5 metres until you come to a large nail. Once again cross over to the left horizontally for about a dozen metres until you find yourself in a basin of fairly broken rocks with beautiful cracks; follow it for about forty metres crossing slightly over to the left and finding yourself on two beautiful, comfortable terraces where the fixed ropes start. Follow it diligently until you come to the top of the Punta Sella, then come down at the next fork and you will reach the Punta Graham where the statue of the Madonna is located.

Downhill
Two options for the descent: along the upward itinerary or - if it is overcrowded - in double rope along the southern rock face, on solid fix fastenings and top-roping.

This itinerary requires experience of high mountains and it is recommended that you get a mountain guide to accompany you.

Day one
From Planpincieux, near the bars and restaurants, head towards the centre of the village following signs for the Boccalatte Refuge. After passing close to a small church, climb up alongside a pine forest. Beyond the forest, the trail heads down slightly to the right, passes a river and heads back up again. The route continues along a channel crossed over by another river that creates some small waterfalls. A little further on, continue along rocky terrain until you come to a steel stairway (about ten metres long), above which there is a stretch equipped with fixed rope. From here, carry on along the moraines of glaciers (here the actual path alternates with rocky stretches) and you will come to and pass a snowfield where you should turn left. This is where the most technical stretch begins, that is, the upward climb of a rocky spur where the refuge stands. In about twenty minutes over rocks equipped with fixed ropes, you will come to the Boccalatte Refuge terrace.

Day two
From the refuge, once passed a short rocky stretch (fixed ropes) you will come to the glacier between moraines and snowfields. Keeping to the left of the Rognon de la Bouteille, you will come to the base of the Reposoir rocks. Climb up the entire rocky spur until you come to the edge of a large frozen basin, known as the Couloir Whymper. Cross it towards the right more or less on flat ground as far as the base of the Rochers Whymper, that can easily be climbed thanks to a fixed rope. You then come to the grand Plateau under the serac at the summit. Cross it in its entirety as far as the right edge where the rocks start that head down towards Punta Walker. From here you can reach the peak’s snowy cap.
Descent: down the upward itinerary.

This itinerary requires experience of high mountains and it is recommended that you get a mountain guide to accompany you.

Day one
From Lac Combal (closed to traffic in La Visaille), take the path that leads to the edge of the Miage glacier moraine and follow it to the end where the glacier starts. Walk along the sediment moved and accumulated by the glacier and then on the glacier itself for about five hundred meters to where it meets with the Dôme glacier. Here, on the right, continue along the path that winds in numerous hairpins over the exposed segments, some equipped with cords and stairs, to the snowfield. Cross to your right to the rocky spur. Lastly, some anchored cords indicate the route to follow: climb the rocky ridge to the Gonella hut.

Day two
From the hut, start the climb on the Dôme glacier keeping against the Aiguilles Grises edge, always careful of crevasses. Once on the Aiguilles Grises ridge, continue to your right to the Bionnassay ridge which ends with the Dôme de Gouter: Leave it to your left to start on the Col du Dôme where the ridge broadens. Pass by the Vallot hut-observatory which is anchored to a strip of rock emerging from the glacier and then take the steps up the snowy ridge (Arête des Bosses) to the top.
Descent: down the ascent route.

This itinerary requires experience of high mountains and it is recommended that you get a mountain guide to accompany you.

First day
From Arnouva, walk along the dirt road that rises from the valley to the hairpin where, on the left, a path climbs to the summit of the Tête de Ferret. The path enters a small valley and continues to the left to the base of a grassy ridge. Follow the path to a marked rise which, at the top, forces you to continue to the left. Cross a small waterway to the top of a second rise where the slope is gentler. Continue on the left, snow-covered at times, on the peaks under the Colle di Grapillon. The path climbs the moraine peaks towards the Mount Allobrogia ridge. Cross the two valleys and rocky ledges to the two camps that suddenly appear.

Second day
From the Fiorio / Dolent camps, cross the peaks scattered with rocks and snow to the Pré de Bar glacier with few crevasses. Continue on your right on the steeper peaks and leave the rocky ledge emerging from the glacier creating a fork, on your left.
Climb the right glacier fork, keeping to the center on the steep hump. After the hump, turn right to cross the crevasse that protects the entrance to the snow-covered gap on the south-east ridge of Mont Dolent. Climb the snow-covered ridge to the base of an instable rocky channel that leads to the beginning shoulder of the top ridge. Continue over the rocks and snow-covered ridges to the peak.
Descent: along the ascent route.

The route requires alpine climbing experience. Alpine guide assistance is recommended.

Day one
From Colle di Bettaforca, follow the marked path to the ridge that shortly leads to the Bettolina pass. Continue on the wide, scenic ridge until it meets the path that climbs from Pian di Verra to the final ridge area. The segment is partially equipped with hand and rope rails and may be tricky when covered in snow. Climb the steep ramp to the plateau where you will easily reach the Quintino Sella hut.

Day two
From the hut, climb the Felik glacier heading North, crossing the Punta Perazzi base. Turn slightly to the right to the steep snow-covered slope under Colle del Felik. Climb diagonally to the right and return to the left to the pass at altitude 4,061m. Continue North-West following the easy border ridge, thin at some points, to reach the top.

Descent: down the ascent route.

This itinerary requires experience of high mountains and it is recommended that you get a mountain guide to accompany you.

First day
From the Salati top cable car station, take the path that leads North and gradually climbs the ridge dividing the Valsesia. After the Salati pass, continue on the ample rises near Stolemberg until you circle it.
Descend about a hundred meters along the routes equipped with metallic cords until you reach a depression. Just beyond, climb the easy rocks on the Indrend peak and continue towards the glacier. You’ll find a moraine cord that will take you to the rocks that climb towards the Mantova hut.
Second day
From the nut, climb the Garstelet glacier to the right until, near the top, you can cross it to the left where the Gnifetti hut stands on the rocky spur. From here, climb the glacier to Colle del Lys. In the almost flat segment that follows the hut, be careful of hidden crevasses. Cross under the Vincent Pyramid, leaving the Balmenhorn rock pile to your right and continue towards Punta Dufour. After the plateau, turn right to Colle del Lys (4228 m).
From the wide gap, continue along Punta Parrot leaving the Colle Sesia gap to your right and head for the depression between Punta Gnifetti and Zumstein. Before reaching Colle Gnifetti, turn right and climb the short but steep slope to Punta Gnifetti where you will find the CAI hut.
Descent: along the ascent route.

The route requires alpine climbing experience. Alpine guide assistance is recommended.

First day
From the Salati top cable car station, take the path that leads North and gradually climbs the ridge dividing the Valsesia. After the Salati pass, continue on the ample rises near Stolemberg until you circle it.
Descend about a hundred meters along the routes equipped with metallic cords until you reach a depression. Just beyond, climb the easy rocks on the Indrend peak and continue towards the glacier. You’ll find a moraine cord that will take you to the rocks that climb towards the Mantova hut.
Second day
From the nut, climb the Garstelet glacier to the right until, near the top, you can cross it to the left where the Gnifetti hut stands on the rocky spur. From here, climb the glacier to Colle del Lys. In the almost flat segment that follows the hut, be careful of hidden crevasses. Cross under the Vincent Pyramid, leaving the Balmenhorn rock pile to your right. Before reaching it, turn right towards Colle Vincent. Without reaching the valley, stay to your right along the gentle stop to the wide peak.
Descent: along the ascent route.

The route requires alpine climbing experience. Alpine guide assistance is recommended.

Day one
Once you leave the village of La Joux, take the easy pathway that - after a flat start - soon starts to head upwards winding through the forest. The pathway runs alongside the river nurtured by the Rutor glacier and by other glacier rocks in the area; it is worth remembering that the water flow forms three famous waterfalls that can be admired by following the short forks branching off from the main pathway. You will walk near the remains of the Montagne du Glacier in order to climb the last ramp that allows you to gain height and will lead you to the Deffeyes refuge.
Day two
From the refuge, follow the pathway that, passing through an area of small lakes, will lead to the Planaval Pass on ground that is rocky and stony in places: the route, where the pathway is less visible, is helped by the presence of stone figures. Once round a rocky ridge, you will walk at the foot of the rocks that support the Pointe des Invergneures and come to the entrance of the valley that descends from the Planaval Pass. Once on level ground, you will come to the summit that has to be climbed in order to reach the Rutor glacier. Head back up southwards, moving round the base of the ridge made up of the Flambeau, the Doravidi and the Château Blanc, and coming to the Rutor Pass (3373 m). From the pass, follow the southern ridge, in some places rocky, in others snowy, until you touch the end rocks that are easy to climb. The peak spike is just a few metres away.
Descent: down the upward itinerary.

This itinerary requires experience of high mountains and it is recommended that you get a mountain guide to accompany you.

Day one
From the village of Glassier, take the wide mule path that climbs towards Conca di By. Near the small artificial basin, continue climbing diagonally to the By pasture where you will find a dirt road. Cross the road and head North across the large pastures. After passing by a pasture, the path steeply rises on the slop to a strip of rocks you can climb with the help of some fixed cords. After this more demanding segment, you’ll be near the Chiarella all’Amianthe hut (2879 m).
Day two
From the hut, climb North along a sort of sediment valley that curves to the left. At the end - to the right - the Colle Amianthe opens leading to the Mont Durand glacier. Continue North on the modest slope, going around the steep glacier slope until you’re in sight of the Col de Sonadon. When you reach the Col, slightly drop to climb to the ledge at the base of Spalla Isler where the Musso camp stands on the left. Free-climb Spalla’s steep face according to the weather conditions. Some fixes are near the top, on the rocks on the left, to ease both ascent and descent. When you reach Grand Combin de Valsorey, where you’ll find a small wooden cross, follow the ridge to the right that leads to the higher peak called Grand Combin de Grafeneire.

Descent down the upward itinerary.

This itinerary requires experience of high mountains and it is recommended that you get a mountain guide to accompany you.

Day one
From Glassier take the clear mule track for By that winds upwards until you come to a small church. Turn left towards a small dam; cross its coping and you will pick up the trail of a country road. After passing it, carry on the slope that heads up to Alpe Porchère. Pass by the mountain pasture furthest upstream - Tsa Porchère - and continue along the path that turns to the left along a water duct. A little further on you will come into a valley that heads up as far as the grassy hump where you will find the Savoie bivouac.
Day two
From the bivouac, follow a pathway that leads to the valley of the Valsorey Pass. Look for traces of the path that rises up between the rocks that take you under the last slope defending the pass. Come at it from the left and you will come to a pass with a crossing to the right. Carry on to the left on a clear rocky ridge following the stone figures that lead to Mont Cordine 3,323m. From the peak, come down towards a clear carving, Col de Chamois, that can be overcome with the aid of a fixed rope; head back up a stretch of the ridge until you come to the Valsorey glacier, leaving the Dents du Velan on the left and heading back up the 2 clear snowy humps that lead to the terminal dome.
Descent: down the upward itinerary.

This itinerary requires experience of high mountains and it is recommended that you get a mountain guide to accompany you.