Via ferrata at the Borelli bivouac (or camp)
Уровень трудности:Not too difficult
c 01/07 no 30/09We recommend that you climb this path in the summer or in the beginning of all. Be very careful with bad weather in the conca del Borelli, it is the first place that fills up with fog.
Esposizione:Юг / Восток - Юг
Пункт отправления:Purtud (1489 meters)
Пункт пребытия::Biv. Borelli (2310 meters)
Tollbooth of Courmayeur. You continue on the statale or state road, passing a roundabout and once in the proximity of a tunnel turn left for Val Veny. You pass the little church of Notre Dame de la Guerison until you reach the little village of Purtud where you will then park your car (area to your left).
It is the historic ascending itinerary to the splendid bivouac that serves the incredible Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, one of the symbols of mountain climbing thanks to its aspect and to its southern crest. Long ago the only place to climb was the mountain route near the waterfall, then an easier route was created for mountain climbers that became a super classic via ferrata.
From the parking area at Purtud you continue towards the cottages of Freney, visible in the middle of the fields characterized by a few ash trees. The path crosses the glade towards the left and begins to climb up amongst the trees reaching the detrital ridge created by the river that falls from the Combalet, the little valley enclosed by the mont Rouge to the left and by the mont Noire to the right. This facility is also named Fauteuil des Alemans, in other words the German’s chair, because of its shape.
You climb up along the entire ridge passing the splendid Combalet waterfall until you reach the first rocky cliff where the fixed cables are located (1890 meters). From there you climb down a few meters to the left, going around the rungs, grasping the chains and you start to climb first with a zig zag motion then with a great leaning dihedral angle. You reach a metallic ladder that, after an aerial crossing, leads to a second ladder. This is the mauvais pas of the path. You have to turn an edge and then continue on a smooth beaten plate with single metal pegs. Once passed this obstacle you climb up vertically with ease until you reach the exit, always equipped with chains.
This part does not have any technical difficulties, but it is aerial and is a difficult test for those that can’t stand the void. From the exit a path climbs up again to then cross the valley, passing under the southern part of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, until reaching the bivouac located near the eastern wall of the mont Noire.
To safely climb this via ferrata we recommend that you be accompanied by a mountain guide.