Jean Antoine Carrel Bivouac
Description of the route
Altitude: 3,835 m
Location: Cresta Leone del Cervino
Open: always open
Trail sign: no
Journey time: 4 h from Ref. Duca degli Abruzzi
Coordinates EAST WGS84: 395311
Coordinates NORTH WGS84: 5092142
The final part of the route, despite the presence of fixed ropes, is reserved only for expert mountaineers.
Uphill from the Duca degli Abruzzi-Oriondé refuge, you pass by the side of the old cableway. The trail snakes between the rocks with several hairpin turns until the Croce Carrel is reached in a little under half an hour.
There are red arrows and numerous cairns to follow which show the way as far as the Colle del Leone pass.
After thirty minutes, you reach the foot of a couloir where the section for expert mountaineers begins. You climb over several rock faces with the aid of a stretch of rope a few meters long and then continue to climb an incline of approximately 45 degrees on rock and on trails. You pass two commemorative plaques, resume on the trail, and pass by the right of the glacier, reaching approximately an altitude of 3400 meters where the trail is cut off by a wall of rock about 10 meters high. After climbing over this wall, you can start on the trail again and follow the cairns until arriving at the Testa del Leone and, after having reached this rocky wall, head more or less straight towards the Colle del Leone pass at an altitude of 3581 meters.
The most challenging section of the climb to the J.A. Carrel mountain hut begins just after the Colle del Leone pass.
You climb several red rock faces and ascend up the ridge on the southern side and on a diagonal couloir and reach a debris area. Leaving a more vertical wall on the right, you continue onto the left. On the trail up to the foot of the sloped ledges of the ridge, a brief but steep section (II) is found with bolts to attach yourself and, if you wish, continue as a roped party. After this section you reach a broad, inclined ledge (Placca Seiler) beyond a small dihedron (III). Another short section of ledge (II) follows and then, always on the southern side with the fixed ropes, a short, exposed and inclined crossing is found that takes you to the bottom of a modest vertical wall equipped with a useful fixed rope.
After the slight overhanging rock a very flat and easy ledge is found, and a brief section of trail on the north side of the ridge to reach the bivouac.
Equipment: mattresses, blankets, pillows, gas stove