Stella artice

Cogne


How to get there

From the village of Lillaz, take the track leading into Valeille. After covering the first part uphill, you will arrive near the cross-country ski track. Cross it and take the footpath in Valeille up to the first bridge over the torrent. Do not cross it and continue along the torrent’s right bank. Once in sight of the ice climb, climb up the slope on the left leading to the starting point. 35 minutes.


Description of the route

A true classic of Valeille. Its success is no doubt due to the easy access and continuity of the climb. Thanks to its exposure, it is almost always in good condition. Very crowded.
To the right of the first pitch, depending on the conditions, you can climb an ice and/or mixed variant (some progression fixes in place and a fix belay to the right of the column).
At the top of the ice climb you can climb a variant to the right of the last pitch instead, which appears like a great non-vertical wall which dies out on the slopes above (abseiling down on Abalakov threads).

Level: III/5
Length: 200 m
First ascent: E. Crudo, G. C. Grassi, S. Rossi 1989
Altitude: 1800 m
Exposure: West
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,39329 Lat.: 45,579148 – UTM (ED50) – X: 374731,45 Y: 5048743,57

L1: long pitch with never vertical, constant inclination. 60 metres. Belay on rock to the left of the free-standing (fix).
L2: climb the large free-standing (usually on the left side) with sustained and exposed climbing until it starts to lose verticality. You can stop after 30 metres to the left, before the final narrowing, stopping on some saplings (ropes and maillon) or you can go out onto the snowy slope above that offers a more comfortable belay. 45 metres. Belay on rock to the left (rock pitons with maillon).
L3: go along the entire channel up to the base of the next jump. 50 metres. Belay on rock on the far right of the icy wall (fix).
L4: long pitch to go beyond the upper wall that has a constant slope and only some short vertical sections. 60 metres. Belay on rock on the upper left (fix). You can also divide the length into two pitches of 30 metres each, belaying halfway onto the rock on the right (pitons).

Descent: with four rappels along the ice climb using the climb anchors (fix and pitons).

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.

 
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