How to get there
Near the village of Buisson, just beyond the cable car of Chamois, turn right to reach the Camping Matterhorn, near which you may park. Go to into the torrent’s bed of the ice climb and go up until you encounter the first difficulties. 10 minutes.
Description of the route
Beautiful and long ice climb located just below the cables of the Chamois cable car. It is characterised by a centre jump, high some 50 metres, which always features very complex and worked ice to be protected but fun to climb. Remember, in miniature, the structure of Trip in the night in Valsavarenche. The last jump, avoidable, often struggles to form completely. It is recommended to climb it anyway on the edge where the ice thickness ensures greater safety. A WI4 level sufficiently sustained.
Length: 400 m
First ascent: Unknown
Altitude: 1300 m
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,6083 Lat.: 45,834628 – UTM (ED50) – X: 391999,51 Y: 5076814,2
L1-L3: easy iced steps and slides more or less steep but not vertical leading to the base of the big centre cliff. Belay on ice or on trees.
L4: vertical centre step, about fifty metres high, featuring large cauliflower and jellyfish. Belay at the top on a metal railing.
Transfer of 80 metres down to the base of the last obstacle.
L5-L6: icy cliff initially steep but never vertical, then progressively with a greater inclination up to the end of the ice climb. Belays on trees.
Descent: on foot. At the end of the ice climb, exit to the left (facing uphill) and reach the easy path on the right side of the ice climb that goes down to Buisson.
Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.