Alpe Cortoz right icefall
How to get there
From the village of Saint-Jacques, head uphill until you cross the Torrente Evançon on a bridge. Initially follow the dirt road to the Rifugio Tournalin: you will come across two detours, always keep on the right to merge into the Vallone di Cime Bianche. After a long flat stretch, the dirt road ends at a concrete water intake from where you see the falls to the upper left. Go up the slope to the base. 1 hour 15 min.
Description of the route
Two fantastic parallel waterfalls are found upstream from the Alpe Cortoz (Cortoz Alp), which have now become the reference site for the first outings of the season. The relatively high altitude and shaded exposure facilitates its taking form quite early; furthermore, the absence of snow allows safe condition to traverse. The site is to be avoided if the snow pack is unstable.
The solution to the right consists of three major jumps interspersed with short connecting sections. Easily combinable with the left parallel (Sbregoretex).
Length: 180 m
First ascent: A. Jaccod, R. Nicco 1984
Altitude: 2180 m
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,70444 Lat.: 45,873801 – UTM (ED50) – X: 399536,45 Y: 5081040,79
You can usually climb it in four pitches, with belays on rock (fix) on the right bank.
Descent: abseiling with fixes on the right bank.
Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.