Giavin Icefall

Champorcher


How to get there

Leave the car in the parking area of the village of Outre l’ève, take the beautiful path of the Vallone della Legna; once you have gone passed a first series of huts, you will approach another group of huts from where you can see the ice climb on the other side of the valley. The path forks; follow the branch on the left (signpost to Lac Cornouy and Colle Boset) which descends briefly down to a bridge; cross the river and turn right crossing the alpine pastures Pian-Bouc diagonally uphill towards the ice climb.


Description of the route

The symbolic ice climb of Vallone della Legna is definitely the most spectacular. It is generally divided into two parallel solutions: the easier one on the left and the more difficult one on the right, normally with a technical degree of difference. Both lines can be climbed in two lengths belaying on ice halfway (there are old spits that you should avoid using) or – more elegantly – in a 60-metre length (handle the friction of the ropes well).

Level: II/4-5
Length: 60 m
First ascent: F. Conta, F. Scazzoli 1986, left line
Altitude: 1450 m
Exposure: North
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,63 Lat.: 45,60735 – UTM (ED50) – X: 393252,05 Y: 5051534,14

Left line (WI4) : initial stretch of petal and cauliflower texture followed by a short vertical pillar up to an impressive plateau, hence a gradually less inclined ramp from left to right leads to the end of the difficulty.
Right line (WI5) : significant sequence of two big free-standings separated halfway by a ledge where you can belay on ice. The first part is generally more technical due to the large medusas and short overhanging passages.
For both lines, belay at the top to the tree (ropes).

Descent: a 60-metre abseil from the tree on the summit (ropes and maillon).

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.

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