Vertigine di porcellana
How to get there
From the village of Lillaz, take the track leading into Valeille. After covering the first part uphill, you will be near the cross-country ski track. Cross it and continue on the level until you reach the bridge over the torrent. Cross it and continue to follow the path that starts to rise very gently halfway along the left bank of Valeille. Cross the first lines and recessed channel of the Cascata di Fenilliaz. After a stretch of trail, you will notice the ice climb in question high up to the right. Go up the channel that precedes it, up to the starting point. 1 hour.
Description of the route
It is a fine ice climb located at the end of a snowy, rather tiring, channel. A classic route that is not extremely difficult but preparatory for grade 4 ice climbs. Only climb with stable snow pack. Usually very crowded.
Length: 90 m
First ascent: P. Angela, E. Bonfanti, G. C. Grassi 1985
Altitude: 1900 m
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,38628 Lat.: 45,573478 – UTM (ED50) – X: 374171,85 Y: 5048124,71
L1: slightly sloped icy slab. 30 metres. Belay on rock on the right (fix).
L2: quite compact wall, quick-paced but never vertical. 40 metres. Belay on the upper left rock (fix).
L3: short ice jump to enter the channel where difficulties end. 20 metres. Belay on rock on the right (fix).
With 60 metre ropes, you can join L2 and L3 going up on the left bank; interesting solution in the presence of other roped parties on the other side.
Descent: with two abseils along the ice climb using the climb’s anchors. You arrive directly from S3 to S1 with 60-metre ropes.
Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.