From Planpincieux, go along the first part of the footpath uphill, up to a characteristic chapel to the left of the road. A few meters before, cross the Dora di Ferret over a bridge and reach the eastern bank of the valley. Once you arrive to a small group of houses of Mayencet, continue heading eastward to the vertical Y-shaped ice climb. Briefly ascend the slightly steep slope up to the base. 30 minutes.

It is definitely the most famous and (relatively) attended ice climb on the Val Ferret. Contained difficulties and easy access contributed to its success … even if you must often deal with the adverse conditions of the snowpack upstream. The area is rather dangerous for avalanches.

Level: III/2-3
Length: III/2-3
First ascent: F. Toldo in the 80’s
Altitude: 1700 m
Exposure: North-West
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,00275 Lat.: 45,832691 - UTM (ED50) - X: 344965,76 Y: 5077596,97

L1: go along the iced slide entirely to the left up to the point where the stream forks and becomes steeper. Belay on ice.
L2: two possibilities. On the left, follow the icy ramp entirely to its end (WI2). On the right, you must overcome a continuous and sustained wall but never vertically (WI3). In both cases, belay at the top on ice or on tree.

Descent: abseiling from tree summits.

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.