How to get there
Climb the entire Valle di Gressoney up to Gressoney-La-Trinité. Leave your car in the large square near the cemetery, west of the town. Take the path that leads to the beginning of the fixed rope route. After two hairpin bends, you will near a quarry: just before, take a steep track on the left that reaches a path that runs from north to south. Follow it up to the Alpe Schelbete from where you can see the waterfall. Climb directly through meadows or snowy slopes to the start point. 1 hour 30 min.
Description of the route
Solitary environment, special view of Monte Rosa, technical difficulties and peculiarity of the climb are the elements that make this a unique ice climb. A considerable, challenging free-standing is followed by a deep gully, almost a tunnel, which emerges on the plateau above. Rather long approach, to consider whether to do it on foot or skiing … depending on the conditions. It is definitely one of the most beautiful waterfalls in the Valley and not only; an absolute must!
Length: 200 m
First ascent: A. Jaccod, E. Marlier 1991
Altitude: 2300 m
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,81175 Lat.: 45,825751 – UTM (ED50) – X: 407785,38 Y: 5075572,64
L1: easy iced slide, which can also be submerged in snow, and can be avoided by going right. Belay on ice at the base of the great column.
L2: wholly pass the free-standing featuring varying difficulty, depending on the conditions. Belay on ice at the end.
L3: short length leading to the base of the cleft. Belay on ice.
L4: almost speleological length, unique in its kind in Valle d’Aosta. Very narrow at its end. Belay on ice on the summit’s plateau.
Descent: on foot by going wide around on the left bank. Leaving the valley’s final bottleneck, head north for about 150 metres up to the edge of the rocky jump. Find an exposed passage equipped with a fixed rope that allows a smooth descent onto the slopes below and therefore at the base of the waterfall (anchorage in place for an eventual rappel).
Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.