How to get there
Go past Gressoney-Saint-Jean and reach Onder Parletoa. Continue briefly upstream until you see, not far from the road, the characteristic vertical wall of the ice climb. Easy to reach base. 5 minutes.
Description of the route
One of the pearls of the Gressoney Valley. Easy access, fun and athletic climb, absence of objective dangers. Yet another prestigious name in the valley thanks to the award winning Jaccod-Marlier. Very crowded.
Most of the roped parties traverse just the first two pitches and then abseil down. An easy third length lets you leave the ice climb and easily reach the channel along the right side (facing uphill) of the waterfall.
First ascent: A. Jaccod, E. Marlier 1990
Altitude: 1550 m
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,82031 Lat.: 45,800475 – UTM (ED50) – X: 408408,74 Y: 5072754,56
L1: initially easy then becomes vertical. Belay on rock in a niche on the right (fix).
L2: turn left to be faced with another considerable vertical section which progressively becomes less steep. Belay on rock to the right (fix).
L3: two possibilities. Short gully on the right, short jump on the left. Belay at the top on rock (fix).
Descent: abseil down the waterfall (fix) or walk along the channel which is located on the left bank of the waterfall.
Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.