Le professeur de la glace

Valgrisenche


How to get there

Leave the car just after the avalanche barriers at Revers, in Valgrisenche, (descent side), go down towards the torrent to cross it on a convenient bridge. Climb the slope back up to the start point. 20 minutes.


Description of the route

This is the twin waterfall to the right of Revers; a little less difficult compared to its neighbour but equally good. It is dedicated to the “Professor” Patrick Gabarrou, who attended the opening on the day after the climb of the Cascatone di Planaval (this time without E. Marlier). To the right of the waterfall – on the big overhang bordered by stalactites – there is a difficult dry-tooling site created by E. Marlier (fix).

Level: II/4
Length: 150 m
First ascent: N. Berzi, P. Gabarrou, G. Maspes 1995
Altitude: 1700 m
Exposure: West
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,07907 Lat.: 45,656883 – UTM (ED50) – X: 350423,6 Y: 5057919,07

L1: gully with generally fine ice and almost vertical sections. Sometimes soft. 55 metres. Belay on rock to the left (fix).
L2: constant and sustained wall with a vertical sections. 45 metres. Belay on rock to the left (fix).
L3: good vertical pillar followed by a still sustained icy dihedral angle. 30 metres. Belay on rock after the difficulty (fix).
L4: easy short length to exit on the summit’s forest. 20 metres. Belay on tree.

Descent: abseiling along the ice climb.

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.

 
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