Sport Itineraries: ** Valle d'Aosta **

The wall is clearly visible from the road and is made up of large dihedrals and aretes, some furrowed with cracks and special holes. The climb is more or less technical and there are many ideal routes for beginners or for climbers’ to familiarize with the rock. The anchors are well-set and all routes have been recently re-equipped with stainless steel material. Pay careful attention to cord length on longer routes since the cord could end before safely reaching the ground.
The activity requires technical experience. Alpine guide assistance is recommended.

Descent: Stops include chains and belays or Munter hitches. Climbers are either belayed down on a 60 m cord or abseil on longer routes.

Minimum, maximum and average route difficulty from 5b to 7b+, average 6a.

Total number of routes: 34.

Average length is 30 meters with a minimum of 18 and maximum of 110 meters.

Other rock walls in the area: Paretone - Arnad.

The wall is clearly visible from the road. The wall is shaped like a rock cupcake made up of ledges on compact rock with typical cracks and grips. The climb is purely face climbing on long routes that require a half a day or more.
The activity requires technical experience. Alpine guide assistance is recommended.

Descent: Stops have chains and belays. Climbers mainly walk down the eastern side of the wall or take the path on the north side. You can leave a second car in the Machaby parking lot or abseil down if you don’t make it to the top. This is not recommended since it is more difficult and may hinder other climbers on their way up.

Minimum, maximum and average route difficulty from 5c to 7a, average 6a.

Total number of routes: 41 + 6 in the case Fara sector.

Average length is 200 meters with a minimum of 35 and maximum of 280 meters.

Other rock walls in the area: Gruviera - Arnad.

La parete sorge dove un tempo vi era una cava di pietra ed è caratterizzata da muri molto compatti e verticali, talvolta anche appoggiati, dove lo stile di arrampicata è molto tecnico e “di dita”. Si trovano 2 settori, uno alto adiacente al piazzale dove si parcheggia, e l’altro circa 50 metri più in basso raggiungibile con un breve sentiero.

Si trovano linee di varie difficoltà, dal 4 al 7c, talvolta, come era lo stile di chiodatura all’epoca della sua apertura, con qualche presa scavata o migliorata artificialmente.

L’attività richiede esperienza tecnica, è consigliabile farsi accompagnare da una guida alpina.

Numero totale vie: 28.
Lunghezza media: 15 metri
Difficoltà: da 4 a 7c.

The wall is clearly visible from the road and is made up of short, compact rock walls smoothed by streams during the eras when the Dora Baltea and others flowed in a sort of gulley, carving the potholes still visible at the bottom of some routes. The rock’s rounded features with some cracks and jugs have motivated climbers to bolt the various sectors. It was one of the first walls where endurance was practiced.
The activity requires technical experience. Alpine guide assistance is recommended.

Descent: Stops include chains and belays or Munter hitches. Climbers are either belayed down on a 60 m cord or abseil on longer routes.

Minimum, maximum and average route difficulty from 5b to 8b, average 6c.

Total number of routes: 71 divided in several sectors.

Average length is 15 meters with a minimum of 8 and maximum of 22 meters.

The Mont Ross wall was created thanks Abele Blanc, a local alpine guide who, with a group of friends who called themselves Croé Bocia, cleaned and bolted all the wall routes in a single season. The rock type is totally different from all the other walls in the Valle d’Aosta since it is dolostone, softer than granite making the climb enjoyable due to the holds and amount of various holds.
The activity requires technical experience. Alpine guide assistance is recommended.

Minimum, maximum and average route difficulty from 5b to 7c, average 6b+.

The walls are all visible from the road that leads to Ayas and have always been popular with the local alpine guides. Excellent anchoring with resin pitons never placed far apart. Both beginner and more expert climbers will enjoy this climb since the more difficult routes are graded high.
The activity requires technical experience. Alpine guide assistance is recommended.

Descent: Stops include chains and belays or Munter hitches. Climbers are either belayed down on a 60 m cord or abseil on longer routes.

Minimum, maximum and average route difficulty from 3c to 7b, average 6b.

Total number of routes: 37.

Average length is 20 meters with a minimum of 10 and maximum of 80 meters.

Wall ascent: follow the paved road closed to traffic that climbs the Urtier valley or take the path that starts behind the hydroelectric power plant. Follow the road or path to the marked curve (sign for the gym) where you can already see the wall. Follow the path over the stones to the wall base. You can also reach the wall on a scenic path that climbs along the famous waterfalls. 15 minutes using the path, 20 minutes following the road, 30 minutes from the waterfalls.

The Lillaz wall has always been a climbing gym for the Cogne alpine guides who bolted and re-bolted it. Climbing is always on ledges and some routes are ideal for beginner climbers even if bolts on easier climbs are sometimes a bit distant. Routes can be climbed on two cords and abseiled down.
The activity requires technical experience. Alpine guide assistance is recommended.

Descent: Top rope on shorter routes, abseil on longer routes.

Minimum, maximum and average route difficulty from 3b to 5c, average 4c.

60 meter long cord recommended.

Wall ascent: follow the dirt road to the Elena hut. Just before the hut, turn left on the path that crosses the bridge over the stream and soon coasts the wall base.

The wall was bolted by the Courmayeur alpine training center in the summers of 1998 and 1999. The first parts of the routes are along a ledge becoming slightly steeper, in central routes, towards the top. There is a belay station every 30 meters where climbers can either abseil or continue. Children should not be left at the base of the routes given the base gradient and possible falling rocks. Normal equipment is required for long sport routes: harness, dynamic rope, quickdraws, descenders, belay device, helmet. Additional quick protections are not necessary.
The activity requires technical experience. Alpine guide assistance is recommended.

Descent: Stops have chains and belays and climbers abseil down.

Minimum, maximum and average route difficulty from 4a to 6b, average 5b.

Total number of routes: 5

Average length is 200 meters with a minimum of 180 and maximum of 215 meters.

Other rock walls in the area: Villair - Courmayeur.

Wall ascent: when you reach the house in ruins, leave the path and continue to your left to the wall.

The wall was anchored by some alpine guides from Courmayeur who did a great job cleaning both the base and the ascent and anchoring and cleaning the wall. Good anchoring in stainless steel material with average distances between pitons. Route style is rather modern.
The activity requires technical experience. Alpine guide assistance is recommended.

Descent: Stops include chains and belays and climbers are either belayed or top-roped down on a 60 m cord or on 80 m cords for 2 length ones.

Minimum, maximum and average route difficulty from 5c to 7c, average 6c.

Total number of routes: 17

Average length is 28 meters with a minimum of 16 and maximum of 42 meters.

Other rock walls in the area: Placche di Pré de Bar, Val Ferret - Courmayeur.

Holds are mostly crimps and jugs but there are also backhand and vertical holds, everything you need for an athletic and technical climb. Bolting is good with resin pitons in crags and fixes on vertical routes. Be careful of the exposed natural ledge at the base.

The activity requires technical experience. Alpine guide assistance is recommended.

Descent: Stops have chains and belays and climbers abseil down on 60 meter cords.

Difficulty from 5c to 8c, average 7b. Average length is 25 meters with a minimum of 18 and maximum of 27 meters.

Total number of routes: 31

Via Ferrata delle Peredrette

It climbs up along the rock ridges above the terraced vineyards. Going up, the view opens out onto the entire valley, to reach a spectacular blade of rock overlooking the Dora Baltea. For the more daring, a short variant presents an extra emotion.

Shortly before the end of the Via Ferrata there is the virtual "log book"; by reading the QR code with your smartphone, you can connect to the web page to register your passage.

The iron-cabled path ends on a spectacular natural balcony among small potholes carved into the rock.

On the way back, follow the Preles valley among chestnut trees, large boulders and the characteristic “barme”, agricultural and pastoral shelters close to the rocks.
The iron-cabled path can be covered in about 90 minutes and the descent takes 45 minutes.

The equipped path does not present any particularly technical difficulties (EEA - PD); the most exposed passage is avoidable, but if followed, it must be done with suitable equipment: harness, hooking-up kit and helmet.

Falesia delle Ciliegie (Cliff of Cherries)

This is located at the top of the via ferrata, accessible by following the path along the deep Preles valley in about 50/60 minutes with a charming hike in the woods. The exposure is sunny, ideal to be done in spring and autumn.

The base of the cliff is wide and spacious, ideal for groups and families (however, be careful to keep an eye on the little ones given the presence of steep rock faces nearby).

There are 18 routes from 15 to 22 meters in length with levels of difficulty between 4b and 6a. Climbing on leaning rock faces and on sub-vertical ones.

Pomerou Pyramid

This is a small rocky structure located at the end of the first ridge of the Ferrata delle Peredrette (Iron-cabled route); it can be reached via a short path through the woods of Pomerou (10/15 minutes). The woods is strewn with boulders, which once served as a roof for the “barme” - the characteristic shelters of woodcutters and shepherds - and are now the playground for boulderers.

Eight routes between 12 and 19m in length are equipped, difficulty levels from 4a to 5c.
Climbing on a leaning rock face, facing north; the position still guarantees a good degree of sunshine.

At the base the area is spacious; however, it is necessary to keep an eye on the little ones so that they do not approach the edge of the mountainside below.

Masso di Reisen (Boulder of Reisen)
Surrounded by vineyards, in the Reisen area, this huge block of rock broke away from the walls of Preles years ago, coming to a stop among the vineyards.
The four faces allow for climbs of very different types and difficulties.
The south face has 5 remarkable lines about 10 m high with a difficulty between 5b/6b on a tended sub-vertical wall.
The east face is equipped with three 10/12m lines between 6b and 7a, vertical.
The north face has three lines of 6/7 m with a difficulty of 5b/c on a vertical scaled wall, while the west face is reserved for medium/high difficulty with two lines of grade 7c with rounded slab following the line of the boulder.
The surrounding flat area among the vineyards is ideal for families. Do not park cars in the spaces adjacent to the boulder (they are private).

N.B. – The cliffs and the iron steps are periodically checked and maintained, however, since these are routes on rock in a natural environment exposed to atmospheric and hydrogeological agents, they can undergo alterations in their state leading to dangerous situations.. Pay attention to the condition of the trails, the walls and the on-site equipment.
Those who follow the paths and equipped routes of the Balteo Climbing Park implicitly and consciously accept the risk inherent to the practice of these sports activities in a natural environment.

Wall ascent: follow the farm road to the wooden gate at the beginning of the path that starts on the left. Follow the path to another, smaller path on your left that quickly climbs through the woods to the wall.

Local climbers began bolting which was continued by a talented climber from Biella who wanted to create high level technical, athletic and mentally challenging routes. Route ratings do not reflect other walls but is highly forced for higher difficulty. Climbing is free-style with various types of holds making it an endurance and stamina climb.
The activity requires technical experience. Alpine guide assistance is recommended.

Descent: Stops have chains and belays and climbers abseil down on 70 meter cords.

Minimum, maximum and average route difficulty from 6a+ to 9a, average 7c.

Total number of routes: 26 + 27 for the Noversch sector.

Average length is 30 meters with a minimum of 20 and maximum of 35 meters.

Other rock walls in the area: Tschatchelaz - Gressoney-Saint-Jean.

Wall ascent: Walk towards the chalet to take the 4a path which, from the base of the woods, climbs towards the wall. Once on the flat path, follow it to the low sector, close to the wall. For the high sector, follow path 4a.

The wall behind the town is clearly visible from the road and parking lot. It has different types of routes divided in two sectors: ledges on the east wall and vertical and slightly steep walls in the high sector. Bolting is recent with resin pitons in the high sector and stainless steel fixes on the east ledges.
The activity requires technical experience. Alpine guide assistance is recommended.

Descent: Stops have chains and belays and climbers abseil down on 50 meter cords.

Minimum, maximum and average route difficulty from 4b to 7c, average 6c.

Total number of routes: 15+9

Average length is 25 meters with a minimum of 18 and maximum of 20 meters.

Other rock walls in the area: Santuario e Benedizione – Gressoney-La-Trinité.

How to get there:
Pont-Saint-Martin highway exit. Turn left to Aosta. Cross the towns of Donnas and Bard to a round about. Here turn left for the Champorcher valley. 7.5 km after the town of Hône, turn right for Courtil.

Wall ascent: On foot from Courtil, follow the paved road to Plan de Flo.

The walls are clearly visible from the road once in the hamlet of Courtil. The rock is always excellent and the climbing style is adherence, with excellent shoe grips. Stainless steel fix bolting is very good and stops are maximum every 30 meters with quickdraw chains. On sunny day, you can see the Monte Rosa glaciers from the top of the routes. The purpose of these routes is to introduce climbers to long routes without particular risks. However, leading should not be underestimated.
The activity requires technical experience. Alpine guide assistance is recommended.

Descent: Stops have quickdraw chains. Climbers usually walk down the left side of the wall on a side path or abseil down if they don’t make the top. Abseiling is not recommended since difficult and could hinder other climbers on their way up.

Minimum, maximum and average route difficulty from 3b to 6b, average 5c.

Total number of routes: 21 long routes + 15 topropes in the bimboclimb sector.

Average length is 140 meters with a minimum of 12 and maximum of 150 meters.

Wall ascent: Walk along the stream and turn left to the wall.

The wall is clearly visible from the road and is made up of a hole on the left and a slightly steep sector on the right. Given the altitude and the fact that La Thuile is cool in the summer, the climbing season is short but this wall is best on hot days since cool. Since the 50’s, alpine troops have climbed this wall and all the routes have recently been re-bolted with stainless steel material. Holds are rather large and, at times, a bit protruding.
The activity requires technical experience. Alpine guide assistance is recommended.

Descent: Stops have quickdraw chains. Climbers abseil down on 50 m cords. 60 m cords are used for double lengths.

Minimum, maximum and average route difficulty from 3b to 6b+, average 6a.

Total number of routes: 17

Average length is 20 meters with a minimum of 12 and maximum of 30 meters on combined lengths.

Wall ascent: Follow the forest path up to a fork. Keep to your right and, near the stream, the road ends and a path starts to the base of the first routes.

The Kirriaz wall, called the Hans Marguerettaz wall, is dedicated to talented alpine guide from Courmayeur who met a premature end during a glider flight. A climber from Valle d’Aosta, Stefano Zilio, began bolting the more challenging routes. Later, the town decided to have alpine guide, Andrea Plat, anchor the route, cleaning the wall of unstable boulders and bolting the routes on the children’s ledges.
The activity requires technical experience. Alpine guide assistance is recommended.

Descent: Stops include chains and belays or Munter hitches. Climbers are either belayed down or abseil on longer routes.

Minimum, maximum and average route difficulty from 3c to 7c, average 6a.

Total number of routes: 60

Average length is 25 meters with a minimum of 12 and maximum of 80 meters.

Wall ascent: On foot, cross the bridge over the stream and follow the path on the right.

The Ollomont wall was bolted by local guides. In recent years, the town funded new bolting and the routes now have resin pitons and ideal distances for newcomers. belay stations are included. A 50 meter cord is sufficient to descent all routes except for the two-length route. A new indoor climbing gym called Maison Grimpe is available in the event of bad weather.
The activity requires technical experience. Alpine guide assistance is recommended.

Descent: Stops have quickdraw chains. Climbers are either belayed down on a 50m cord or abseil on longer routes.

Minimum, maximum and average route difficulty from 5b to 7c, average 6a.

Total number of routes: 19

Average length is 30 meters with a minimum of 18 and maximum of 110 meters.

The wall is clearly visible from the road and includes a very steep sector to the left and a slightly steep sector to the right. It is good for endurance despite the short routes. Many holds have been comfortized where particularly difficult but endurance climbers still love the routes. Anchoring is good, made up with fixes with chain plus belay stops.
The activity requires technical experience. Alpine guide assistance is recommended.

Descent: Stops have chains and belays and climbers abseil down on 50 meter cords.

Minimum, maximum and average route difficulty from 6a to 8b+, average 7c.

Total number of routes: 30

Average length is 18 meters with a minimum of 12 and maximum of 22 meters.

The area was created for the 1989 sport climbing competition. There are 4 main sectors: Gare Est, Cheyenne, Gare Ovest, Muro rosso. The climbing style for all routs is small holds and endurance. The anchoring is good and the distance between pitons is never excessive. It is good practice grounds for onsight climbs and for endurance.
The activity requires technical experience. Alpine guide assistance is recommended.

Descent: The stops have chains and bolts and climbers abseil down.

Minimum, maximum and average route difficulty from 6a to 7c, average 6c.

Total number of routes: 45

Average length is 25 meters with a minimum of 15 meters in the cheyenne sector and maximum of 27 in the gare Est sector.

Other rock walls in the area: Miollet - Valgrisenche

Wall ascent: take the dirt road to the well-marked path. Continue for 10 minutes on the path to the first sector.

The Miollet walls were created by various alpine guides. It is mainly roche moutonnée by the glacier with cracks, crimps and jugs. There are easier routs along the path, ideal for beginners, while the left sector has steeper and more athletically challenging routes. Rock quality is excellent as well as the bolting, never too far apart.
The activity requires technical experience. Alpine guide assistance is recommended.

Descent: Climbers belay down on 60 meter cords or abseil down the few multi-pitch routes.

Minimum, maximum and average route difficulty from 3a to 7c, average 6b.

Other rock walls in the area: Le Gare - Valgrisenche.

Wall ascent: from the parking lot, head towards the stream and follow the path to the wall.

The wall is clearly visible from the road and made up of ledges on the field at the base. For this reason, the Valsavarenche administrators believed in the alpine guides and funded the bolting and access path creation. The wall is mainly for free climbing but there are cracks typical of granite that help aided climbing. These walls are between average and high mountain heights but the micro climate created on sunny days lets you climb wearing a t-shirt. About 15 minutes to the left is a 7 length route with maximum 5c difficulty rating called “facing paradise” where you can add fast protections for more safety. Stainless steel bolting is excellent.
The activity requires technical experience. Alpine guide assistance is recommended.

Descent: Stops include chains and belays or Munter hitches. Climbers are either belayed down on a 60 m cord or abseil on longer routes.

Minimum, maximum and average route difficulty from 4b to 6c+, average 5c.

Total number of routes: 27

Average length is 30 meters with a minimum of 18 and maximum of 75 meters.

Other rock walls in the area: Parete delle Guide a Pont - Valsavarenche.

The walls are all visible from the road that leads to Cervinia and are made of green rock (serpentinous), smoothed in some parts by glaciers. For this reason, it is hard to find holds on steeper walls except for the cracks typical of this rock. Climbers will find both easy and difficult walls and faces with athletically challenging climbs. These walls have always been climbing gyms for the Cervino alpine guides, many of whom trained for the more challenging “Gran Becca” climb. Multi-pitch routes are set for modern climbs and never too easy. The most interesting sectors are the gym and ledge sectors, the Gouffres di Bousserailles sector and the large wall.
The activity requires technical experience. Alpine guide assistance is recommended.

Descent: Stops include chains and belays or Munter hitches. Climbers are either belayed down on a 60 m cord or abseil on longer routes.

Minimum, maximum and average route difficulty from 3c to 7b+, average 6a.

Total number of routes: 59 in different sectors.

Average length is 20 meters with a minimum of 8 and maximum of 130 meters.

Probably the most famous Valpelline ice climb when it comes to medium-high difficulty. Its fame is surely deserved, so much as to be absolutely recommended to all ice climbing enthusiasts with a little spirit of adventure. In fact, we are not exactly in the typical comfort zone of the Cogne valleys; before planning the climb, it is necessary to consider a number of factors including, of course, the snow. It may seem lengthy when approaching it, depending on the road viability to the dam of Place Moulin.
The ice climb is characterised by a big stalactite jump at the start point (of varying difficulty depending on its formation), followed by a higher section that seems easier but anchors need to be applied for safety. Fixed anchors (spits) were present once, but even the solid expansion bolts were wiped away with the mighty rush of the summer waters.
Technically, it is comparable to Stella artice in Valeille … but requiring a greater effort overall.

Level: IV/5
Length: 200 m
First ascent: E. Marlier, C. Rosset 1989
Altitude: 2050 m
Exposure: North-West
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,48074 Lat.: 45,891793 - UTM (ED50) - X: 382213,61 Y: 5083345,98

L1: pretty vertical jump that can be approached along different lines. Belay at the end on ice. There used to be a belay on the rock to the right (spit) that can no longer be used.
L2, L3, L4: the difficulties of the ice climb decrease considerably. You climb belaying at will on ice to the end of the waterfall.

Descent: abseiling along the ice climb (abalakov).

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.

Beautiful line representing the flagship of the high Valtournenche area. It forms practically every year but the periods I which it can be climb it are few because of high avalanche hazard. It is a sure high-mountain environment to yet another masterpiece signed by Gian Carlo Grassi. Assess very carefully the snowpack stability upstream of the ice climb … consideration that applies to all lines of this area!

Level: IV/5
Length: 400 m
First ascent: G.C. Grassi, M. Rossi 1986
Altitude: 2450 m
Exposure: West
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,59596 Lat.: 45,922828 - UTM (ED50) - X: 391213,7 Y: 5086630,39

It is usually climbed in even long pitches, always belaying to the right (going up). The first five belays are equipped with fixes, the last two are done on ice.

Descent: abseiling back down the ice climb stopping on the belays used to climb. The first two abseils from the top are to be equipped on abalakov, the following five are on 12 mm fixes and quick maillon. Use of 60metre ropes is mandatory.

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.

This is the centre line of the lower part of the Laures amphitheatre. Well recognisable thanks to its diagonal and straight courses from right to left. It offers a wonderful atmosphere, embedded in the rocks that vaguely resemble a gully. Recommendable.

Level: II/3
Length: 200 m
First ascent: A Casalegno, F. Toldo 1985
Altitude: 1400 m
Exposure: North
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,40693 Lat.: 45,704773 - UTM (ED50) - X: 376072,89 Y: 5062679,33

Series of never vertical ridges interspersed with connecting stretches. Normally, it is climbed with four long pitches; all belays are made on ice. No material in place.

Descent: the most fulfilling and fun solution is surely to follow the icy stream in its entirety until you are a few metres east of the La Vieille alpine pasture. Follow the path to the right down to the base. Alternatively, you can still descend anywhere by abseiling, using the many trees available. No material in place.

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.