Antares

Valsavarenche


How to get there

Having passed the village of Pravieux, where the square is at the starting point of the trail to the Rifugio Chabod, continue briefly towards Pont. The road makes a long curve to the right: at its end, where it begins to go uphill, there is an open area on the left. Park your car and walk to the waterfall, which is visible from the road just before reaching the square. Go up the short alluvial fan at the mouth of the channel, which you will follow until the route starts to become difficult. 10 minutes.


Description of the route

Together with Rovenaud, it is definitely the most frequented waterfall of Valsavarenche, often connected with the latter (after moving by car). The very quick and easy access, the good conditions over a long time and the not particularly serious dangers have made this slide successful. However, watch out for critical snow conditions as the risk of avalanches is not entirely excluded, especially at the end of the season: this issue obviously applies to many waterfalls deemed safe.
The following is a description of the shortest path, which is also the easiest, located on the right bank of the main jump.
You can also go along the left bank (the right, seen from below) with two significant lengths of continuing difficulty, a little more than the classic route: in this case the first pitch ends right at a rocky ledge (belay to fix), whereas the second pitch connects at the top to the third pitch of the opposite side.

Level: II/4
Length: 80 m
First ascent: A. Cambiolo, P. Sartore 1988
Altitude: 1950 m
Exposure: East
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,20865 Lat.: 45,541142 – UTM (ED50) – X: 360232,25 Y: 5044826,41

L1: easy icy ramp, a little to the left. Belay on the rock on the left (fix).
L2: move to the right and face the considerable icy jump with a constant slope and just short vertical sections. Belay at the top left in an easy rocky ravine (fix).
L3: exit right from the niche and climb the short vertical column, after which you traverse an easy icy ramp. Belay to the right on a rock (fix). Most roped parties descend from this point.
L4: almost never negotiated, it allows you to leave the difficulties and reach the old road to Nivolet which stands a little above. Belay on tree at the top at the end of the difficult stretch.

Descent: abseiling along the route using the anchors present on both sides (fixes).

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.

 
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