Sport Itineraries: Cogne

Wall ascent: follow the paved road closed to traffic that climbs the Urtier valley or take the path that starts behind the hydroelectric power plant. Follow the road or path to the marked curve (sign for the gym) where you can already see the wall. Follow the path over the stones to the wall base. You can also reach the wall on a scenic path that climbs along the famous waterfalls. 15 minutes using the path, 20 minutes following the road, 30 minutes from the waterfalls.

The Lillaz wall has always been a climbing gym for the Cogne alpine guides who bolted and re-bolted it. Climbing is always on ledges and some routes are ideal for beginner climbers even if bolts on easier climbs are sometimes a bit distant. Routes can be climbed on two cords and abseiled down.
The activity requires technical experience. Alpine guide assistance is recommended.

Descent: Top rope on shorter routes, abseil on longer routes.

Minimum, maximum and average route difficulty from 3b to 5c, average 4c.

60 meter long cord recommended.

It is a beautiful ice structure that is clearly visible from the village of Lillaz. It features a rather fun climb, especially on the second pitch that runs diagonally to the right where you can choose whether to pass between rocks and ice (sometimes you have to break some edges to make a hole) or climb outside the edges (more delicate and exposed).
The following describes the most frequent climb, which is the one on the left. You can often start on the right by going up a fine free-standing followed by a long traverse to the left up to the belay of the classic route. In the latter case, be very careful of the overhanging edges as you will be climbing vertically!

Level: III/5
Length: III/5
First ascent: S. Mazza, E. Marlier 1990
Altitude: 2000 m
Exposure: West
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,40326 Lat.: 45,590409- UTM (ED50) - X: 375533,93 Y: 5049979,18

L1: rather repetitive series of vertical walls, going from left to right. Belay on rock (fix and chain).
L2: diagonally toward the right searching for the best passage between stalactites and edges. Normally, you can go into a sort of tunnel between rocks and ice (easier), otherwise you have to cross outside on the ice stalactites which are always rather smooth (more difficult). When the ice ends, a fix protects a short mixed passage (M4) which allows you to reach the channel at the summit. Belay on the left on rock (fix and chain).

Descent: two solutions. With a long and rather exposed abseil (60 metres) from the S2 or exit onto the summit’s forest and fix a chain to a tree on the waterfall’s right bank; an abseil will take you back to where the backpacks were left, which is normally to the far left of the waterfall’s base.

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.

The most classic among the classics in Valnontey ... and much more. It is definitely the busiest trail in the valley. To be avoided at weekends because a long queue is guaranteed! You must keep in mind, however, that even in the presence of several roped parties, it is still possible to climb without jeopardizing the safety of the progression. The ice climb in fact consists of several independent jumps; all you have to do is just wait until the roped parties before you have finished their pitch.
Be cautious in the event of heavy snowfalls or the general instability of the fresh snow. Contrary to what you might think, the cascade is quite exposed to avalanches … especially to the greater ones.
The WI3 technical assessment obviously takes into account the easier route; needless to say that numerous, more difficult versions are also available.
An interesting pillar is formed from time to time just a few metres to the left of the start of the cascade: this is a fascinating alternative to decongest possible crowding on the main route.

The following is a description of the simplest and most direct route that also includes medium/long pitches. There are also other climbing opportunities when the ice allows it, providing for intermediate belays (usually equipped with fixes). Our advice of course is to avoid overcrowding the same belays while trying to be as independent as possible: fortunately, the ice allows considerable route customization.

Level: III/3
Length: 250 m
First ascent: G. C. Grassi, P. Marchisio 1985
Altitude: 1950 m
Exposure: West-North-West
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,32951 Lat.: 45,552873 - UTM (ED50) - X: 369694,56 Y: 5045926,15

L1: the first jump of the ice climb can be tackled at several points. The easiest route involves passing a not so steep icy dihedral on the left, followed by a cross to the right until the end of the jump. 60 metres. There is a belay on the rock to the right (fix). This belay can also be reached by directly passing over two well supported ridges interposed by a large, almost horizontal, mantelshelf which you can rest on.
L2: move to the left and take on a frozen ridge, initially steep then more sloping at the end. Then walk up to a large stony block. 40 m. There is a belay at the upper right of the stony block (fix).
L3: walk several metres to the base of a short frozen ridge that can be easily passed from the centre. Belay on upper left of rock (fix).
Short transfer to the base of the upper part of the ice climb.
L4: the wide icy wall of the upper part allows you to climb everywhere, following at least 4 independent lines. 40-50 metres. In all cases, the belay is located on the top right before the rocky bottleneck (fix).
L5: move to the left into the centre of a narrow gully and climb it up to its end. Belay on rock at the upper right (fix).

Descent: if necessary, it is possible to abseil down from any belay (fix). The most practical solution however is to abseil down from the last jump (2 rappels). From here, walk diagonally to the right (facing downhill) going down into a sort of channel that runs along the right bank of the ice climb. You will end up exactly where the backpacks were left. Be careful in the case of heavy snowfalls, the slopes you descend are short but quite steep. It is recommended that you keep the crampons on during the descent.

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.

Not many words are needed to describe this slide; it is simply one of the most famous ice climbs in the world. It was lionized after the first climb, made under very difficult conditions and with little ice. Over the years, it has been repeated regularly and tamed with fixes at the belays on both sides.
A short note on the technical assessment. After thousands of roped parties repeated over the years, there has been a tendency to downsize the difficulty level by one degree. In fact, considering the structure under the best conditions but without signs of passage, it features a first section that is wholly vertical for almost one hundred metres. Obviously, if you split this section into three or more lengths, the physical effort is greatly reduced. Otherwise, a WI6 assessment would be more than appropriate if it is performed in two long pitches.
The story of the first climb is relatively unknown and analysed in depth with some anecdotes written by Elio Bonfanti in his work of 2009, after having taken on the ice climb with F. Conta and F. Damilano on the 20th anniversary of its opening. To recap, the rush to the first climb of Repentance super has certainly helped increase the level of ice climbs in Valle d’Aosta giving rise to an almost competitive movement that brought locals A. Cambiolo and E. Marlier to the ascent of Di fronte al tradimento the day after the first ascent of Repentance …
Unfortunately, still many roped parties only do the first half of the ice climb and abseil down from the end of the most difficult part. It is actually much more rewarding to continue up to the top and finish the climb on the plateau of Money; the last portion of the pitch offers the stark contrast between vertical and horizontal.
The following describes the path on the left bank which is the one normally taken. Bear in mind that you can also climb from the centre or the left (facing upwards), where some belays on the rock are available (old bolts and pitons).

Level: III/6
Length: 250 m
First ascent: F. Conta, F. Damilano, G. C. Grassi, F. 1989
Altitude: 2100 m
Exposure: West North West
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,32693 Lat.: 45,547463 - UTM (ED50) - X: 369480,78 Y: 5045329,38

L1: after the short initial slope, you face a steep vertical wall, generally very rough textured, much like a cauliflower. Sometimes it is the most challenging pitch of the ice climb. 45 metres. Belay on the rock on the right (fix).
L2: climb the entire vertical pillar up to the top with physical and sustained climbing. 55 metres. Belay on the rock right at the end of the vertical section (fix). If you want, you can split this length into two, belaying on rock in a stony ravine at the base of the pillar where the first part of the ice climb ends (fix) ... it goes without saying that the difficulty level is slightly reduced. Sometimes it can be difficult to reach the belay and even more to climb out of it: this is why you should not stop and continue until the end of the vertical section.
L3: easy channel of snow/ice. 25 metres. Belay on rock to the left under a small overhang (fix).
L4: continuation of the channel that bends slightly to the right to get around the icy wall at the base of the final section. 40 metres. Belay on rock on the right (fix).
L5: icy ramp with constant slope, initially the left then to the right, which leads onto the plateau of Money. 55 metres. Belay on a rocky block on the summit’s plateau (fix). In certain years, you can also climb a great column to the right of the path which is normally followed and that leads directly to the summit plateau, with sustained climbing (WI5).

Descent: abseiling down the ice climb using the climb’s anchor points (fix).

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.

A true classic of Valeille. Its success is no doubt due to the easy access and continuity of the climb. Thanks to its exposure, it is almost always in good condition. Very crowded.
To the right of the first pitch, depending on the conditions, you can climb an ice and/or mixed variant (some progression fixes in place and a fix belay to the right of the column).
At the top of the ice climb you can climb a variant to the right of the last pitch instead, which appears like a great non-vertical wall which dies out on the slopes above (abseiling down on Abalakov threads).

Level: III/5
Length: 200 m
First ascent: E. Crudo, G. C. Grassi, S. Rossi 1989
Altitude: 1800 m
Exposure: West
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,39329 Lat.: 45,579148 - UTM (ED50) - X: 374731,45 Y: 5048743,57

L1: long pitch with never vertical, constant inclination. 60 metres. Belay on rock to the left of the free-standing (fix).
L2: climb the large free-standing (usually on the left side) with sustained and exposed climbing until it starts to lose verticality. You can stop after 30 metres to the left, before the final narrowing, stopping on some saplings (ropes and maillon) or you can go out onto the snowy slope above that offers a more comfortable belay. 45 metres. Belay on rock to the left (rock pitons with maillon).
L3: go along the entire channel up to the base of the next jump. 50 metres. Belay on rock on the far right of the icy wall (fix).
L4: long pitch to go beyond the upper wall that has a constant slope and only some short vertical sections. 60 metres. Belay on rock on the upper left (fix). You can also divide the length into two pitches of 30 metres each, belaying halfway onto the rock on the right (pitons).

Descent: with four rappels along the ice climb using the climb anchors (fix and pitons).

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.

It is a fine ice climb located at the end of a snowy, rather tiring, channel. A classic route that is not extremely difficult but preparatory for grade 4 ice climbs. Only climb with stable snow pack. Usually very crowded.

Level: III/3
Length: 90 m
First ascent: P. Angela, E. Bonfanti, G. C. Grassi 1985
Altitude: 1900 m
Exposure: East
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,38628 Lat.: 45,573478 - UTM (ED50) - X: 374171,85 Y: 5048124,71

L1: slightly sloped icy slab. 30 metres. Belay on rock on the right (fix).
L2: quite compact wall, quick-paced but never vertical. 40 metres. Belay on the upper left rock (fix).
L3: short ice jump to enter the channel where difficulties end. 20 metres. Belay on rock on the right (fix).
With 60 metre ropes, you can join L2 and L3 going up on the left bank; interesting solution in the presence of other roped parties on the other side.

Descent: with two abseils along the ice climb using the climb’s anchors. You arrive directly from S3 to S1 with 60-metre ropes.

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.

Just after Moline, in the municipality of Cogne, take route 5 on the left of the road that goes up the slope to Colonna.

You can also continue inside the valley of Liconi (ancient cultivation site outside the iron mine) to reach the ridge leading to Mount Creya. Interesting panorama.

The section between Colonna and Mount Creya is recommended for expert hikers.

From the higher part of Cogne, take the cable car (a fee is due) which reaches 2072 m where the Nature Trail starts, near the bar. It’s an educational itinerary featuring 15 observation points where you can discover many small wonders of the mountain habitat: the woodland and its inhabitants, the man and his territory, the birds of prey living on the cliffs, the green stones and the land morphology, the effects of glaciations, the iron mines and the historical settlements. The Nature Trail is a medium difficult itinerary: one easy part is suitable for everyone until the Belvedere panoramic natural terrace over the Cogne valley, the Gran Paradiso massif and the Mont Blanc, while a more challenging part on the Montseuc ridge (2327 m) is steeper and more difficult with some exposed parts.

From Cogne, cross the Sant'Orso meadow along path 25A towards Grand-Buthier. The same path climbs to the Ors Damon mountain pasture. From here, turn left and, after a stretch of path no. 25, take itinerary no. 25C on the right, which leads first to the National Park guard’s lodge, and then to another bifurcation. Now continue along trail 26 on the left until you come to the pastures of Pousset Dessus and Barme, before reaching Col Pousset and the Gratton bivouac.

The walk begins, entirely on gravel road, at the end of rue Mines de Cogne in front of the restaurant, then crosses fir and larches woods on the left bank of Urtier stream. Just after Champlong village the route crosses the Geosite, an environment totally changed by a huge landslide occurred during the year 2000 flood.  Bicycles are allowed, but they have to run at a walking pace. The walk reaches at the end, just before Lillaz village, the picnic area equipped with tables, benches, barbecues, fountains and toilettes.

From the cable car departure station reach the second wooden bridge, turn left and take path 23 that descends towards Valnontey and, flanked by fir and larch trees, crosses the entire length of Sylvenoire plateau.
Along the walk there is a bar-restaurant, an alpine pasture and a fresh-water spring.
For flower lovers, the surrounding underwood contains examples of the very rare Linnea Borealis.
The path descends to Champlong hamlet and continues to Lillaz crossing Champlong Geosite : a huge landslide occurred during October 2000 flood that today represents an interesting geological area.

From the village of Epinel you turn right along an easy mule-track (no. 23) which takes you to the ruins of the “Mougne” tower. You continue on going under the Cogne-Pila railway line, and then go through a mixture of evergreen woods and pastureland until you reach the hamlet of Gimillan.
Panoramic walk with views over Cogne valley, the Gran Paradiso massif and Grivola.

From Epinel, a hamlet on the road to Cogne, cross the Grand Eyvia stream and take route 27 which goes up to Alpe Pianesse. Just before the houses, near a crossroad take route 27B on the right, which crosses the hillside of Bois de Ronc and leads to Alpe Petit Nomenon, in the municipality of Aymavilles. Now, take route 5 on the right to go up to the pasture of Grand Nomenon and the Gontier bivouac.
Before coming to Alpe Petit Nomenon you will find a section of the trail equipped with ropes and chains.

Leave the car in Epinel, in the municipality of Cogne, then cross the village and take the path that leaves from the last few houses and leads to the dirt road on the left of the village. After a few hundred metres, route 2 goes off to the right to reach the pastures of Teuvre, Chavanis (just after itinerary no. 2 is joined by route 3A on the right from Gimillan) and lastly Arpisson, near which there is a crossroad. Ignore itinerary 3 on the right and take the left-hand trail that goes into Arpisson valley. A few hundred metres later you come to another crossroad. Continue along route 2 (on the right) and go up until you come to Nebbia bivouac, just before the last steep slope up to Col Garin.
Continue on the right of the bivouac to reach Lac Garin in a short time.
Go left of the bivouac to go up to the Pass Garin.

In Gimillian, a hamlet of in Cogne, take the dirt road that leads to Plan de Teppe. From here take route 3, which cuts over the hillside to the valley of Arpisson and the pasture of the same name. At the cabins, take trail 2 on the right, which goes up to a crossroad and here, ignore route 2 on the right and take trail 2A on the left, which brings you to Tsasèche Pass.

Park the car in Gimillan, in the municipality of Cogne. Take route 8 on the right of the village, which goes into the Grauson valley. Along the way you come to the pastures of Tchezeu, Pila, Crouzet and Grauson Desot. When you get to a junction, 20 minutes on the other side of Grauson Desot, continue north (8A) towards Alpe Grauson Dessus (2548 m). Before Grauson Dessus, take the right itinerary 8B at a crossroad, which continues first towards Lago Coronas and then towards the pass, from where you can enjoy the wonderful view over the Matterhorn. The mountain pass connects the Cogne valley with the municipality of Saint-Marcel 11 km from Aosta.

Park the car in Gimillan, in the municipality of Cogne. Take route 8 on the right of the village, which goes into the Grauson valley. Along the way you come to the pastures of Tchezeu, Pila and Crouzet. After t his, leave route 8 on the left and take route 8C on the right which takes you up the hillside to Lake Money.

Park the car in Gimillan, in the municipality of Cogne. Take route no. 8 on the right of the village, which leads to the Alpine pastures in the Grauson valley. Continue amid the high altitude pastures until you come to Alpine pastureland of Pila, Crouzet and Grauson Désot. At a junction that you meet soon after this last place, take route no. 8A to the left which climbs up to the Alpine pastures of Grauson Dessus, passing a junction along the way where the right-hand path, which you ignore, would take you to Lake Coronas. Continuing on along the same route, you come to a high plateau where the first of the Lussert Lakes is located.
To reach the other three lakes, continue climbing past a series of steep rocky crags, which bring you to the hollows where the lakes are situated.

Park the car in Gimillian, in the municipality of Cogne, and on the right of the town take route 8 which goes up to the pastures of Tchezeu, Pila, Crouzet and, ignoring itinerary 8C on the right towards Lac Money, goes to Grauson Désot. When you get to the crossroad after the last cabin, ignore route 8B on the left and continue along route 8 on the right towards Alpe Pralognan and the pastures of Erveilleres ( 2538 m). Finally, go up to the pass in the centre of the valley, with the Doreire lakes and the Tessonet glacier on the left, below Punta Tersiva (3513 m).

Charming itinerary starting off at the north-east of Gimillan village. After crossing the wooden bridge, continue north on the gravel road until the fork on the right where path n.8 starts and gets deeply into the Grauson valley. After passing the Madonna of Révènti oratory, go ahead towards the Tchezeu bridge leading to the left bank. Carry on till the the fork with path n.8F that leads to the waterfalls under the rocky wall.

From Gimillan, in the municipality of Cogne, take the dirt road at the start of the village leading to Plan de Teppe. From here, take route 3 which goes up to a crossroad. Leave this trail on the left, and take the right branch of route 3B, which goes up the Tsaplana side to the summit of the same name, where you can enjoy a unique panorama of the valley of Cogne.

From the square in Lillaz, in the municipality of Cogne, take route AV2 which continues into the Urtier valley. After reaching a group of houses and going past a short section of a penstock, it goes up into a wood, and after crossing a number of meadows, reaches the pasture of Goilles Inferiore. Next, the trail goes over the stream, across a small bridge, and continues on the orographic left bank, climbing up inside the wood. At a fork junction, where the trees become less dense, route 13G leads into valley bathed by the Bardoney, and continues gently to Alpe Bardoney. As you continue along the itinerary, halfway up the valley, ignore the branch of route 13H on the right heading for Col Arolla, until you come to the valley floor and the pass of the same name, where you can enjoy a wonderful view of the wild valley of Forzo in the Canavese district.

Hiking itinerary from Llillaz to Bardoney pasture
Itinerary for expert hikers from Bardoney pasture to Col Bardoney

From the square in Lillaz, in the municipality of Cogne, take route AV2 which continues into the Urtier valley. After reaching a group of houses and going past a short section of a penstock, it goes up into a wood, and after crossing a number of meadows, reaches the pasture of Goilles Inferiore. Next, the trail goes over the stream, across a small bridge, and continues on the orographic left bank, climbing up inside the wood. You then come to junction where the trees become less dense. Continue along the same itinerary, ignoring the path (13G) to the right that goes into Bardoney valley, until you come to the P.N.G.P. park guard’s lodge. Continue to further crossroads, where you ignore first route 13D on the right for Col Acque Rosse, then AV2 on the left for Col Finestra, and take routes 13B and 13C on the right. After a short section, take itinerary 13B, on the left at a junction, which takes first over grassy meadows and then along a hunting trail to the snowfield below the pass. The final climb is up a snowfield. Colle dell’Arietta is the most used pass between Cogne and Val Soana and is the pilgrim route to the Sanctuary of San Besso in the municipality of Campiglia.

From the square in Lillaz, in the municipality of Cogne, take route AV2 which continues into the Urtier valley. After reaching a group of houses and going past a short section of a penstock, it goes up into a wood, and after crossing a number of meadows, reaches the pasture of Goilles Inferiore. Next, the trail goes over the stream, across a small bridge, and continues on the orographic left bank, climbing up inside the wood. You then come to junction where the trees become less dense. Continue along the same itinerary, ignoring the path (13G) to the right that goes into Bardoney valley, until you come to the P.N.G.P. park guard’s lodge. Keep going until you come to another crossroad, where, on the right, the 13D takes you to the Acque Rosse valley. The trail finally takes you to the hill of the same name.
The pass is situated along the Punta Nera - Torre di Lavina ridge and connects Cogne valley with Campiglia Soana. In the past it was used for normal communications between Cogne and Canavese.

From the square in Lillaz, in the municipality of Cogne, take route AV2 which continues into the Urtier valley. After reaching a group of houses and going past a short section of a penstock, it goes up into a wood, and after crossing a number of meadows, reaches the pasture of Goilles Inferiore. Next, the trail goes over the stream, across a small bridge, and continues on the orographic left bank, climbing up inside the wood. You then come to junction where the trees become less dense. Continue along the same itinerary, ignoring the path (13G) to the right that goes into Bardoney valley, until you come to the Gran Paradiso National Park guard’s lodge. Continue further and the itinerary leads to further crossroads where, on the right, you ignore route 13D for Colle Acque Rosse, then 13B and 13C for the Miserini lakes. From here, after crossing several brooks, you come to the Sogno Péradza refuge (closed), from where, amid stone terrain, the trail climbs to Col Fenêtre de Champorcher, near which there is an old military shelter.