Sport Itineraries: Gressoney-La-Trinité

Wall ascent: follow the farm road to the wooden gate at the beginning of the path that starts on the left. Follow the path to another, smaller path on your left that quickly climbs through the woods to the wall.

Local climbers began bolting which was continued by a talented climber from Biella who wanted to create high level technical, athletic and mentally challenging routes. Route ratings do not reflect other walls but is highly forced for higher difficulty. Climbing is free-style with various types of holds making it an endurance and stamina climb.
The activity requires technical experience. Alpine guide assistance is recommended.

Descent: Stops have chains and belays and climbers abseil down on 70 meter cords.

Minimum, maximum and average route difficulty from 6a+ to 9a, average 7c.

Total number of routes: 26 + 27 for the Noversch sector.

Average length is 30 meters with a minimum of 20 and maximum of 35 meters.

Other rock walls in the area: Tschatchelaz - Gressoney-Saint-Jean.

Solitary environment, special view of Monte Rosa, technical difficulties and peculiarity of the climb are the elements that make this a unique ice climb. A considerable, challenging free-standing is followed by a deep gully, almost a tunnel, which emerges on the plateau above. Rather long approach, to consider whether to do it on foot or skiing … depending on the conditions. It is definitely one of the most beautiful waterfalls in the Valley and not only; an absolute must!

Level: IV/5
Length: 200 m
First ascent: A. Jaccod, E. Marlier 1991
Altitude: 2300 m
Exposure: North-East
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,81175 Lat.: 45,825751 - UTM (ED50) - X: 407785,38 Y: 5075572,64

L1: easy iced slide, which can also be submerged in snow, and can be avoided by going right. Belay on ice at the base of the great column.
L2: wholly pass the free-standing featuring varying difficulty, depending on the conditions. Belay on ice at the end.
L3: short length leading to the base of the cleft. Belay on ice.
L4: almost speleological length, unique in its kind in Valle d’Aosta. Very narrow at its end. Belay on ice on the summit’s plateau.

Descent: on foot by going wide around on the left bank. Leaving the valley’s final bottleneck, head north for about 150 metres up to the edge of the rocky jump. Find an exposed passage equipped with a fixed rope that allows a smooth descent onto the slopes below and therefore at the base of the waterfall (anchorage in place for an eventual rappel).

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.

The route leaves from Stafal in the municipality of Gressoney-La-Trinité, first running alongside the Lys stream on the orographic right, then it turns left going uphill along a farm track which crosses a sparse larch wood and takes you to the Treje clearing. The path continues gently uphill and cuts across a ski-slope, leading you to the splendid S. Anna plateau. the route does not enter the flat area, although the Chapel of S. Anna, built in 1726 on the site of a pre-existing emergency refuge for travellers coming up the Col Bettaforca, is well worth a visit. OIn the back ground behind the chapel you can see some peaks from the Rosa group, the Corno Bianco massif and the deep furrow of the Val Gressoney.
Once past the flat area of S. Anna, the path becomes steeper and reaches the refreshment point of Sitte (2297 m a.s.l.) and then enters the Bettaforca valley until it comes to the pass with the same name.

From the arrival point of the Bettaforca cableway, continue along the right side of Mount Bettolina, on the Gressoney side, along the trail marked 9.
Go over wide stony expanses alternating with basins containing snow residues, then go up a steeper section of fractured rocks and go onto the rocky crest. The next section requires careful attention, despite the safety ropes and protection. After this point, go up the crest until you reach a shelf touched by the glacier on which the refuge stands.

The trail to the bivouac begins in Edelboden Inferiore. Continue into a larch wood along the clear path that winds sharply upwards. When you get to a series of cliff, get past them by crossing right and come out onto small grassy shelves where you find Spillmansberg pasture home.
Continue along the hillside, crossing steep slopes, towards the valley floor, and when you get to a stream, cross to follow the trail that rises up the large eroded blocks.
After an easy rock plate, you come to a grassy crag with a bivouac.

The start of the trail can be reached with the Stafal-Gabiet cable car. To know the opening times and for further information, please contact the Monterosa Ski S.p.A.

From Stafal, the last village in the Gressoney valley, take the cable car to Gabiet. At the arrival, follow path 6 which leads to the Bar Restaurant Adlers Nest and then continues towards Albergo del Ponte. Before reaching it, take the dirt road on the left following the signs for paths 6a and 6b. From there, the trail continues slightly uphill, entering the valley and crossing the Endrebach stream, and then gets a little steeper, until reaching a small water intake. At this point, the path climbs up a grassy slope, but the effort of the ascent is rewarded by two wonderful lakes and the view over the beautiful outline of the Piramide Vincent (4215 m) and its glaciers. From there, reach the basin that hosts the final destination of the route, the Orestes Hütte mountain hut, lying on a wide and flat terrace sheltered from the spurs of the Monte Rosa massif.

Follow the trail signposted 10 from the square in Gressoney-La-Trinité.
The trail is rather steep and winds continuously through larch woods and around several crags.
After the first section, you come to a pasture, and then turn left to reach the ledge with the Cozzi bivouac. (*)
Move slightly to the left and, after going into a small valley which is usually covered in snow at the start of the season, a steeper section takes you to the wide ridge that connects Mount Pinter to Testa Grigia.
From here, continue initially along the side facing Champoluc and then move to the side facing Gressoney, to reach the summit after a final section of rocks.

(*) Before the former Cozzi Bivouac, there is a fixed-rope section of the trail.

The start of the trail can be reached with the Punta Jolanda chairlift. To know the opening times and for further information, please contact the Monterosa Ski S.p.A.

From the centre of Gressoney-La-Trinité, reach the historic Punta Jolanda chairlift located just outside the centre of the village in the direction of Stafal. In a few minutes, you’ll reach the upper station of the lift, from which you can enjoy a wonderful view over the Gressoney Valley. Take a break at the Bar Restaurant Punta Jolanda and, from there, take path no. 5, which first climbs and then reaches a second, almost flat section that leads to the Gabiet artificial lake. To get to the other side of the valley, descend and then climb back on the path near the lake. Once on the other side, near the group of houses, head towards the dam and follow the flat path, with beautiful views towards the Piramide Vincent (4215 m). Once at the bottom of the lake, climb to the wide pass behind which the Gabiet mountain hut, the destination of the itinerary, is located.

It is possible to reach Sant’Anna with the cable car when it is open. To know the opening times and for further information, please contact the Monterosa Ski S.p.A.

The start of the trail is located past the village of Gressoney-La-Trinité, along the regional road 43, at the junction to Anderbätt, just past the hamlet of Selbsteg. The very first part of the route descends slightly across the natural bridge over the Lys river, locally known as Selbsteg. A little further on, walk along the beautiful houses in the hamlet of Bätt (1744 m) and then start to climb up the south-facing slope behind the houses through a larch forest. Halfway up the path, cross the small Bättbach stream and then continue uphill along the grassy slopes leading to the mountain pastures and the characteristic chapel of Sant’Anna (2171 m), which offers a breathtaking view over the Monte Rosa.

From the end of the paved road in Stafal, in the municipality of Gressoney-La-Trinité, go up the valley on the orographic left bank, along the trail signposted 7.
When you get to the lower edge of the left moraine of the Lys glacier, ignore the path for Col Salza and continue along a small valley closed between the left lateral moraine and the valley of Salza.
Further along, the path crosses left onto the moraine ridge.
Go up the moraine ridge until you come to a steeper section. Cross this, again towards the left, along traces of the path, until you come to the springs of the Lys.
The stream waters emerge directly from the glacier to form a small lake.

From the end of the paved road in Stafal, in the municipality of Gressoney-La-Trinité, go up the valley on the orographic left bank, along the trail signposted 7.
When you get to the lower edge of the left moraine of the Lys glacier, turn right to the path signposted 7C, which winds steeply up into a small valley that reaches the pastures of Salza Inferiore ( 2321 m).
Continue up the steep slopes alternating with short flat shelves in the valley, closed on the southside by the crags of Punta Teltscho, as far as Col Salza.
From the hill follow a short section of route 6A until, afar a steep section, you reach a fork. Go left along trail 7C until you reach the top of Alta Luce in a short time, from where you can enjoy an excellent view of the glaciers of Mount Rosa.

The route starts from Stafal in the municipality of Gressoney-La-Trinité, at the Monterosaski ski-lift car-park. You cross the meadows in this hamlet along an easy path and enter the Moos valley along an un-made track for about 400 m. The trail touches the Locher and Leisch mountain pastures, where the path begins to go steeply uphill, winding its way to the intermediate point of the Gabiet. The walk continues along an un-made track for about one hour as far as the turn-off which leads to Col d’Olen, one of the main commercial routes once used by the Walser people of Gressoney and Alagna.

Starting from the historic Tache square, where the tourist office and the interesting Walser Museum are situated, take the narrow street heading northwards, next to the beautiful parish church and its cemetery, and continue straight ahead along the paved road that in a few minutes leads to a bridge over the Lys river. Do not cross it and continue along the right bank following the route that soon becomes a dirt road. After about 35 minutes the path reaches the beautiful houses in the hamlet of Bätt, dominated by the Biel chapel, which is the destination of the route. This small church can be reached in a little more than 20 minutes along path 9a, offering a spectacular view of the Gressoney valley.

Near Lysbalma, just before the municipal seat, take the trail marked W, which leaves the regional road and leads up to the steep mixed conifer wood. The trail winds along the ridge to reach the village of Alpenzù Piccolo. From here, continue along the trail through meadows, climb up and cross the Pinter stream. Come down a little and continue the trail winding towards the village of Alpenzù Grande. Near the chapel, you can take the path that winds down the steep side and reaches Chemonal, in the municipality of Gressoney-Saint-Jean.

Technical difficulty: medium
Physical difficulty: medium
Bike-friendly: 100%
Type of Route: mixed asphalt, dirt, path

For those coming from the A5 Torino/Milano motorway, the exit is that of Pont-Saint-Martin. Enter the Pont-Saint-Michel village and continue along the Gressoney Regional Road no. 34 until you reach its end in the square of the cable car facilities in Stafal in Gressoney-La-Trinitè.

The path sets off from the square with the Stafal cable car facilities in the municipality of Gressoney-La-Trinité. You follow the dirt road that begins near the Residence Le Marmotte, before first running along a stretch of the Lys stream for a while, on the orographic right side, then turning to the left to ascend along a farm track that crosses a sparse larch wood and reaches the Treje clearing. The dirt road continues with a gentler slope and after intersecting the ski slope, arrives at the Sant’Anna plain from where you can enjoy a fantastic view of Monte Rosa. The path continues at the Sant’Anna Chapel, erected in 1726 on the remains of an emergency recovery refuge for pilgrims and mountain inhabitants who were climbing up to the Bettaforca hill. Here you can see a few of the most beautiful peaks of the Monte Rosa group along with the Corno Bianco mountain range. After passing the Sant’Anna plateau, the farm track becomes more demanding, even if the bumpy road facilitates the climb itself. Then you arrive at the Sitte refreshment point (2297 metres above sea level) and enter the Bettaforca valley with a stretch that allows you to reach Colle della Bettaforca quickly and enjoy the beautiful panoramic view of the Lys glaciers and many 4000 metres high mountains of the Monte Rosa range.
You can return to Stafal along the dirt road used to ascend to the hill.

Day one
From Colle di Bettaforca, follow the marked path to the ridge that shortly leads to the Bettolina pass. Continue on the wide, scenic ridge until it meets the path that climbs from Pian di Verra to the final ridge area. The segment is partially equipped with hand and rope rails and may be tricky when covered in snow. Climb the steep ramp to the plateau where you will easily reach the Quintino Sella hut.

Day two
From the hut, climb the Felik glacier heading North, crossing the Punta Perazzi base. Turn slightly to the right to the steep snow-covered slope under Colle del Felik. Climb diagonally to the right and return to the left to the pass at altitude 4,061m. Continue North-West following the easy border ridge, thin at some points, to reach the top.

Descent: down the ascent route.

This itinerary requires experience of high mountains and it is recommended that you get a mountain guide to accompany you.

First day
From the Salati top cable car station, take the path that leads North and gradually climbs the ridge dividing the Valsesia. After the Salati pass, continue on the ample rises near Stolemberg until you circle it.
Descend about a hundred meters along the routes equipped with metallic cords until you reach a depression. Just beyond, climb the easy rocks on the Indrend peak and continue towards the glacier. You’ll find a moraine cord that will take you to the rocks that climb towards the Mantova hut.
Second day
From the nut, climb the Garstelet glacier to the right until, near the top, you can cross it to the left where the Gnifetti hut stands on the rocky spur. From here, climb the glacier to Colle del Lys. In the almost flat segment that follows the hut, be careful of hidden crevasses. Cross under the Vincent Pyramid, leaving the Balmenhorn rock pile to your right and continue towards Punta Dufour. After the plateau, turn right to Colle del Lys (4228 m).
From the wide gap, continue along Punta Parrot leaving the Colle Sesia gap to your right and head for the depression between Punta Gnifetti and Zumstein. Before reaching Colle Gnifetti, turn right and climb the short but steep slope to Punta Gnifetti where you will find the CAI hut.
Descent: along the ascent route.

The route requires alpine climbing experience. Alpine guide assistance is recommended.

First day
From the Salati top cable car station, take the path that leads North and gradually climbs the ridge dividing the Valsesia. After the Salati pass, continue on the ample rises near Stolemberg until you circle it.
Descend about a hundred meters along the routes equipped with metallic cords until you reach a depression. Just beyond, climb the easy rocks on the Indrend peak and continue towards the glacier. You’ll find a moraine cord that will take you to the rocks that climb towards the Mantova hut.
Second day
From the nut, climb the Garstelet glacier to the right until, near the top, you can cross it to the left where the Gnifetti hut stands on the rocky spur. From here, climb the glacier to Colle del Lys. In the almost flat segment that follows the hut, be careful of hidden crevasses. Cross under the Vincent Pyramid, leaving the Balmenhorn rock pile to your right. Before reaching it, turn right towards Colle Vincent. Without reaching the valley, stay to your right along the gentle stop to the wide peak.
Descent: along the ascent route.

The route requires alpine climbing experience. Alpine guide assistance is recommended.

Day one
Taking the ski-lift upwards, you will come to Gabiet at 2350 m. Go up the slopes for about 100 m of level difference, turn left along the trail of the summer pathway and you will come to the Indren mountain pastures at 2541 m. Pass the large plain and head up the clearly visible “eagle’s channel”, that can often require the use of crampons. You will come to the ruins of the Linty refuge 3030 m and, passing by the large moraine on the left, you will come to the Città di Mantova refuge at 3498 m.

Day two
Head up the Garstelet glacier on the right leaving the Gnifetti refuge on your left at 3647 m. You will come to the Piramide Vincent base, go round it on the left and, watching out for the numerous crevasses, you will reach a height of 4000 m. Turn right and along the easy northern slope you will come to the summit ridge and then the top.

From Staffal use the facilities that take to the colle Bettaforca and from the arrival station continue to the right along the high mountain dirt road. The itinerary soon becomes a path that crosses to the right (orographical left) of punta Bettolina passing the hill with the same name that re-joins the path that goes up to Staffal. After which you will also find the arrival path to the right of val d’Ayas.
The last part of the trail is an aerial crest that takes to the refuge, located on the plain that dominates the Verra glacier visible also from the Mezzalama refuge.
The rocky trail is simple and has handrails (a few years back it had chains). On the trail there is also a beautiful wooden bridge located a very sharp part, shortly before a small gendarme. Once at the refuge you will awestruck by the view of the 4000 meters of the Monte Rosa, particularly of the Castore that dominates the entire plain.

From the huge clearing go left where you will find a wooden sign indicating the ferrata to the right. Follow the mule track that goes up to the right. In 2 minutes you reach the wire ropes of the ferrata. You climb up a series of nailed plaques and footholds which are difficult because there are a few sheer drops. You reach a big ledge. Go towards the woods to the left, continuing vertically. You overcome plaques and hangingwalls and a slight dihedral of about twenty meters. You reach a metal ladder and continue on other plaques, with sheer falls until you reach a repeater. (It is possible to go down following a trail to the right, somewhat steep, that takes you to the bottom, losing altitude in the woods with numerous bends).
From the exit of the Vecchia (or Old) ferrata proceed to the left and you will reach a 35 meter bridge in only a few minutes. Cross it and reach the fastenings of the Nuove (New) ferratas:
the ferrata to the right (ED) begins with a 2 meter wall and a sheer plate with good footholds. Continue by crossing right with a 7 meter passage first in a sheer fall and then vertically. You can catch your breath for a few meters to then continue on the last 15 meter sheer wall that takes to the exit at the beautiful Tache mountain pastures.
- the ferrata to the left (ED) begins with a 5 meter wooden beam that goes down and connects with a Tibetan bridge of about a dozen meters. Go up a sheer plate overcoming a ledge and then continuing on a vertical wall. Then continue on another sheer wall that takes to the final exit that is well supported.

From the building continue right into the woods on trail 11 that soon becomes trail 10 which you will take until you come to a second fork. Continue right on a very steep trail until you reach the downhill path that leaves the old ferrata.
To safely cross the ferrata we recommend that you be accompanied by a mountain guide.

From the parking areas, located on the opposite side of the Lys river with regards to the facilities of punta Jolanda, you continue to walk towards the glaciers along the right orographical bank for about 50 meters. Once you have reached the playground to your left you can see the structure located in the field: it is a school of strengthened rocks, with a fence and a wooden statue. You climb up along steps slanting to the right, you cross and re-climb one last step, shortly reaching a platform. From there you jump off with a cable way that takes you to the field below. (You can go on it more than once or test yourself in the 9 climbing routes for beginners on real rocks with a few artificial grips).

For more information:
Scuola di Alpinismo Monte Rosa www.guidemonterosa.com
E-mail: info@guidemonterosa.com
Società Guide Alpine di Gressoney (Mountain Guides Society of Gressoney) www.guidemonterosa.info
E-mail: info@guidemonterosa.info

WALSER TRADITIONS
Wide wooden balcony, large verge…and a lot of flowers, in the windows and on the balconies. If you see houses like these at the side of the road, you have entered Walser “territory”. But the structure of the habitations is not the only idiosyncrasy of the upper Gressoney Valley. There is also an unusual dialect, different from the patois used by most of the people in Aosta Valley: It is Titsch, a parlance of German roots. The population of Walser in fact originates from Valais, from which they migrated, between the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, settling here and in the adjacent Ayas Valley. The first Walser village that you encounter upon climbing the the hollow is Issime, village of ancient origins.

THE SAVOY CASTLE
Two stops in Gressoney-Saint-Jean. The first is the Savoy Castle, which you can see in the pine forest on your left. Completed at the end of the 1800’s by Queen Margherita, passionate mountaineer, stands on a panoramic terrace where you can enjoy a splendid view of the entire valley all the way to the Lyskam glacier. The second stop can be made at Gover Lake for a relaxing walk.

MONTE ROSA
Continue towards Gressoney-La-Trinité through Walser villages, pastures and woods. Monte Rosa awaits you majestically at the end of the itinerary.