Ice climbing in the Aosta Valley

A true classic of Valeille. Its success is no doubt due to the easy access and continuity of the climb. Thanks to its exposure, it is almost always in good condition. Very crowded.
To the right of the first pitch, depending on the conditions, you can climb an ice and/or mixed variant (some progression fixes in place and a fix belay to the right of the column).
At the top of the ice climb you can climb a variant to the right of the last pitch instead, which appears like a great non-vertical wall which dies out on the slopes above (abseiling down on Abalakov threads).

Level: III/5
Length: 200 m
First ascent: E. Crudo, G. C. Grassi, S. Rossi 1989
Altitude: 1800 m
Exposure: West
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,39329 Lat.: 45,579148 - UTM (ED50) - X: 374731,45 Y: 5048743,57

L1: long pitch with never vertical, constant inclination. 60 metres. Belay on rock to the left of the free-standing (fix).
L2: climb the large free-standing (usually on the left side) with sustained and exposed climbing until it starts to lose verticality. You can stop after 30 metres to the left, before the final narrowing, stopping on some saplings (ropes and maillon) or you can go out onto the snowy slope above that offers a more comfortable belay. 45 metres. Belay on rock to the left (rock pitons with maillon).
L3: go along the entire channel up to the base of the next jump. 50 metres. Belay on rock on the far right of the icy wall (fix).
L4: long pitch to go beyond the upper wall that has a constant slope and only some short vertical sections. 60 metres. Belay on rock on the upper left (fix). You can also divide the length into two pitches of 30 metres each, belaying halfway onto the rock on the right (pitons).

Descent: with four rappels along the ice climb using the climb anchors (fix and pitons).

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.

It is a fine ice climb located at the end of a snowy, rather tiring, channel. A classic route that is not extremely difficult but preparatory for grade 4 ice climbs. Only climb with stable snow pack. Usually very crowded.

Level: III/3
Length: 90 m
First ascent: P. Angela, E. Bonfanti, G. C. Grassi 1985
Altitude: 1900 m
Exposure: East
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,38628 Lat.: 45,573478 - UTM (ED50) - X: 374171,85 Y: 5048124,71

L1: slightly sloped icy slab. 30 metres. Belay on rock on the right (fix).
L2: quite compact wall, quick-paced but never vertical. 40 metres. Belay on the upper left rock (fix).
L3: short ice jump to enter the channel where difficulties end. 20 metres. Belay on rock on the right (fix).
With 60 metre ropes, you can join L2 and L3 going up on the left bank; interesting solution in the presence of other roped parties on the other side.

Descent: with two abseils along the ice climb using the climb’s anchors. You arrive directly from S3 to S1 with 60-metre ropes.

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.

It is definitely the most famous and (relatively) attended ice climb on the Val Ferret. Contained difficulties and easy access contributed to its success … even if you must often deal with the adverse conditions of the snowpack upstream. The area is rather dangerous for avalanches.

Level: III/2-3
Length: III/2-3
First ascent: F. Toldo in the 80’s
Altitude: 1700 m
Exposure: North-West
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,00275 Lat.: 45,832691 - UTM (ED50) - X: 344965,76 Y: 5077596,97

L1: go along the iced slide entirely to the left up to the point where the stream forks and becomes steeper. Belay on ice.
L2: two possibilities. On the left, follow the icy ramp entirely to its end (WI2). On the right, you must overcome a continuous and sustained wall but never vertically (WI3). In both cases, belay at the top on ice or on tree.

Descent: abseiling from tree summits.

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.

Solitary environment, special view of Monte Rosa, technical difficulties and peculiarity of the climb are the elements that make this a unique ice climb. A considerable, challenging free-standing is followed by a deep gully, almost a tunnel, which emerges on the plateau above. Rather long approach, to consider whether to do it on foot or skiing … depending on the conditions. It is definitely one of the most beautiful waterfalls in the Valley and not only; an absolute must!

Level: IV/5
Length: 200 m
First ascent: A. Jaccod, E. Marlier 1991
Altitude: 2300 m
Exposure: North-East
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,81175 Lat.: 45,825751 - UTM (ED50) - X: 407785,38 Y: 5075572,64

L1: easy iced slide, which can also be submerged in snow, and can be avoided by going right. Belay on ice at the base of the great column.
L2: wholly pass the free-standing featuring varying difficulty, depending on the conditions. Belay on ice at the end.
L3: short length leading to the base of the cleft. Belay on ice.
L4: almost speleological length, unique in its kind in Valle d’Aosta. Very narrow at its end. Belay on ice on the summit’s plateau.

Descent: on foot by going wide around on the left bank. Leaving the valley’s final bottleneck, head north for about 150 metres up to the edge of the rocky jump. Find an exposed passage equipped with a fixed rope that allows a smooth descent onto the slopes below and therefore at the base of the waterfall (anchorage in place for an eventual rappel).

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.

Classic amateur ice climb, very accessible. It is located downstream of the picturesque village of Walser from which it takes its name. Very crowded.

Level: II/3
Length: 180 m
First ascent: A. Jaccod in the early 80’s
Altitude: 1500 m
Exposure: East
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,82021 Lat.: 45,797598 - UTM (ED50) - X: 408396,04 Y: 5072435,07

L1: rather short length that passes the first ice ridge, never vertical. Belay on rock to the left (fix).
L2: same features as the first pitch but longer. Belay to the right on tree (rope).
Move along the river to the base of the final jump. Belay on the rock to the right (fix).
L3: good ridge about 60 metres high allowing numerous climbing routes depending on the weather conditions. You can climb in two lengths, stopping halfway on ice or, more elegantly, in one long pitch. Belay at the top on a tree (ropes).

Descent: descent is possible by abseiling down the ice climb. However, to not interfere with other roped parties, it is preferable to walk down an easy footpath on the left bank. In this case, at the end of the third jump, you must climb another hundred metres until you find the path to Alpenzù.

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.

One of the pearls of the Gressoney Valley. Easy access, fun and athletic climb, absence of objective dangers. Yet another prestigious name in the valley thanks to the award winning Jaccod-Marlier. Very crowded.
Most of the roped parties traverse just the first two pitches and then abseil down. An easy third length lets you leave the ice climb and easily reach the channel along the right side (facing uphill) of the waterfall.

Level: II/5
Length: II/5
First ascent: A. Jaccod, E. Marlier 1990
Altitude: 1550 m
Exposure: East
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,82031 Lat.: 45,800475 - UTM (ED50) - X: 408408,74 Y: 5072754,56

L1: initially easy then becomes vertical. Belay on rock in a niche on the right (fix).
L2: turn left to be faced with another considerable vertical section which progressively becomes less steep. Belay on rock to the right (fix).
L3: two possibilities. Short gully on the right, short jump on the left. Belay at the top on rock (fix).

Descent: abseil down the waterfall (fix) or walk along the channel which is located on the left bank of the waterfall.

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.

The super classic of the Gressoney Valley. It is the ice climb that best represents the transition from average to high difficulty. It lies between two mighty rocky bastions that host two great climbing cliffs. It forms nearly every year and is pretty crowded. The following describes the route most taken, on the right (facing uphill) but you can also climb it from the centre and the left with sustained difficulties.

Level: II/4
Length: 140 m
First ascent: A. Jaccod, E. Tarchini 1983
Altitude: 1700 m
Exposure: West
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,82992 Lat.: 45,812001 - UTM (ED50) - X: 409174,18 Y: 5074024,16

L1: icy ramp progressively steeper but never vertical. 60 metres. Belay on rock to the right (fix).
L2: it is the most sustained length with some interesting vertical sections. 50 metres. Belay on rock to the right (fix) or to tree (ropes). Most roped parties descend from here.
L3: easy length to leave the ice climb. Very rarely traversed. 30 metres. Belay on tree.

Descent: if you traverse the last easy length, it will be necessary to walk down the right bank up to S2, where you can abseil down along the waterfall.

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.

It is an ice climb located at the far right of the rocky reef that includes the “Gaula” waterfalls. It is not very visible as it is embedded in a gully. When it forms – unfortunately not always – it is definitely a recommended line. Prestigious for famous names visiting Ollomont.

Level: II/4
Length: 140 m
First ascent: P. Batoux, A. Cheraz, P. Gabarrou, E. Marlier 1996
Altitude: 1850 m
Exposure: North-West
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,31134 Lat.: 45,872042 - UTM (ED50) - X: 369025,17 Y: 5081415,84

L1: ice, often fine, but never vertical, to the upper snowy channel. Belay on the rock to the left (fix).
L2: channel of snow up to the base of the centre pillar. Belay on rock to the left (fix).
L3: ice ramp followed by a considerable vertical pillar of about 8 metres. Belay on rock to the left (fix).
L4: pleasant recessed vertical length between never vertical rocks. Belay at the top to the tree (ropes).

Descent: abseiling along the ice climb.

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.

It is the busiest line in the area. It shows as a good, vertical ice wall, a hundred metres high, that forms on a rocky ledge surrounded by woodland. Unfortunately, it suffers an unfavourable exposure to the sun and not always offers high quality ice. Furthermore, it does not form regularly every year, but when it does, you have to grab it quick! No objective dangers.
The name of the ice climb commemorates the accommodation facilities, which no longer exist, “Foyer des guides” located in the village of Vaud and managed by one of its first climbers (A. Cheraz).

Level: II/4
Length: 100 m
First ascent: A. Cheraz, E. Marlier in the 90’s
Altitude: 1700 m
Exposure: East
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,29506 Lat.: 45,870991 - UTM (ED50) - X: 367758,87 Y: 5081325,88

L1: very long, vertical and sustained pitch, more or less at the centre of the great wall. 60 metres. Belay on rock to the left in a niche (fix).
L2: turn right to tackle an impressive sequence of vertical ridges, until the end of the difficulties. 40 metres. Belay on rock to the left (fix).

Descent: abseiling along the ice climb with the anchors used during the climb (fix).

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.

It is the leftmost line of the rock bastion overhanging the left bank of the valley, above the village of Glacier. A beautiful waterfall surrounded by woodland, consisting of three independent sections. It is named after the small chapel nestled into the rocks a few metres to the right of the departure of the first pitch. Ideal for tackling frozen waterfalls for the first time.
In certain years with abundant ice, instead of the first pitch, you can climb a little more difficult start point variant, located to the right of the chapel, which reaches the base of the original pitch: Diretta dell’oratorio. II/4. 40 metres (S. Petey, P. Rollin 2007).

Level: II/3
Length: 120 m
First ascent: S. Petey, C. Rosset 1990
Altitude: 1900 m
Exposure: West
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,31257 Lat.: 45,87417 - UTM (ED50) - X: 369125,18 Y: 5081650,26

L1: easy and wide ice slide. Belay on ice high above on a snowy plateau at the base of the following jump.
L2: impressive ice wall, initially vertical, then less steep until it ends. Belay to the top of the tree. Depending on conditions, you can climb this obstacle along various lines; the ones on the left side are even more difficult (WI4).
Brief transfer on snow.
L3: climb the last not so difficult ridge and the subsequent snow slope. Belay at the top to a tree.

Descent: on foot. From the end of the ice climb, cross the woods horizontally toward the left (facing uphill) until you find the channel which descends diagonally to the start point.

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.