Via ferratas

From the parking area of Ruz you enter the village following the signs for the Crete Seche refuge. You go up a nice path that, at first, alternates with a dirt road at the entrance to the valley. Once you reach the mountain pastures you can continue on the normal path or take the shortcuts to the left, (indicated by signs with “raccourci” written on them), that steeper and quicker take you to the refuge. Once at the facility, pass it heading towards the bivouac Spataro that dominates the entrance to the plains. Once passed the bivouac you continue towards the bottom of the valley. At this point the tracks are not so visible: to the left you can see the detrital slide that leads to the Mont Gelé.
You continue to the right looking for various posts which are not easy to find, but you can easily see the huge post placed on the hill, which you can already see from the plains. Once you’ve reached the hill continue to the left on the fully equipped trail that goes up all along the crest. The itinerary is continuous and simple, with some aerial parts and short portions without rope (because it’s not needed). The last part is characterized by short amusing plaques placed to the left of the crest. In some parts the rock defoliates but does not get in the way.
Once you’ve finished the ferrata you climb down on the huge morainic rock and go to the left where there are two trails. The one to the right goes down towards middle coast on the plains and takes to the refuge. The one to the left goes towards the canal and down to the plains. In both trails you continue on the path that you crossed in the beginning.

From the Aosta motorway exit, continue along the state road towards the town until the junction for Pila on the left. Proceed as far as the roundabout at Pollein then turn right for Charvensod. At Pont Suaz turn left and then immediately right. Continue uphill to the upper car park of Pila where the road ends and the hike begins.

Old ferrata (Col Carrel):
From the upper car park in Pila, head past the ski school and then the “Chalet du Soleil”. Proceed to the right and take path 19a which leads to the left to Alpe di Chamolé.
At the mountain cabins, near the fountain, continue left along a dirt track. You will soon reach a small path that branches off to the right (trail sign 20a). Proceed first uphill and then on the flat until you reach Plan Fenêtre, where you will see a cross. Continue left downhill towards Comboé.
Reach the little valley and, after the chalets, cross the stream to the left and continue to a crossroads.

Continue to the right towards Col Carrel (trail sign 16a). The path becomes a track among the scree and climbs up to the pass where the Federigo bivouac is located. Proceed to the right on the ridge behind the building. Go over the first debris, following some markers that lead to the start, slightly to the left. Continue along boulders to the top of the first rocky peak before the Tibetan bridge. The rather elevated equipped walkway connects to the next peak. The trail proceeds with slightly more tiring and vertical passages up to Mont Ros de Comboé (3285 m).
Once you have crossed the summit, continue on apparently flat ground, on easier terrain. There is a first exit, signposted to the right, which goes to Lago Gelato.
Proceed uphill to Petit Emilius (3342 m) and continue along the ridge, the edge of which is circumvented on the right, first on reddish terraces and then on a more vertical section of lighter, crumbly rock. The via ferrata ends at the last spur. Continue for about ten minutes on moraine to reach the summit.
The descent is along the south ridge to the right, following the itinerary that leads to the Tre Cappuccini pass and from there to the right down to Lago Gelato. The tracks lead to the Arbolle refuge and from there, along an uphill path to the Chamolé col, then downhill to the homonymous lake and to the left to the ski lifts for Pila (or to the right to the path that leads back to the starting point).

Time required: 5 hours for the via ferrata, plus 3 hours to reach the Federigo bivouac (start of the via ferrata) and a further 4 hours to return to the valley along the normal route.

New ferrata (Col Ros):
Circular route. The approach trail starts at the Arbolle refuge and heads to Lago dell’Echo. From here it climbs to Col Ros (3071 m asl) and then to Mont Ros (3250 m). At this point, the new via ferrata route joins the old one and leads to the summit of Mont Emilius. The descent is along the normal route.

Time required: 2½ hours to reach the Col and a further 4 hours to complete the via ferrata. Overall, the round trip takes nine hours.

From the parking area proceed towards the left corner. You will find a yellow sign (trailmarker 21) for the mountain hut. After 40 meters you will find a fork to the right that leads to a small road that crosses the village (yellow arrow). This mule track goes into the woods, passing the small chapel of Planpincieux, to then become a winding path. The trail continues towards the ice-falls, reaching a canal full of debris. Pass this to the right and enter a second canal, keeping to the left and wade into the river. You continue towards a waterfall with I-II level passages. Continue on the right ridge until you reach a metal ladder that helps you to climb a trail (it is easy). At the exit there is a worn out rope. Continue along a morainic ridge until you reach the top. Continue to the left amongst the debris towards the ledge where you can see the mountain hut. Once you have reached the plaques go up a detrital ramp to the right. You will find a fixed hemp rope that crosses to the left. Follow the ropes until you reach a pulpit. You go up in a zig-zagging aerial trail until you reach the terrace on the glacier where the mountain hut is located. It is possible to finish this excursion by passing the entrance and the bathrooms continuing behind the mountain hut following the ropes that take to the glacier where the Italian flag is placed and from where you begin the great mountain climbs.

From the Pavillon refuge you continue on a clear trail towards the botanical garden on the opposite side (which is marked) which you will keep to your right. You coast alongside a fence on a path (trail marker 20 and wooden sign on a rock indicating “palestra 20 minuti” or “ “practice wall 20 minutes”). Continue until you come to a fork between two poles. You leave behind paths 20, 20b to your right in ascent and proceed to the left on a “fake” plain (trail marker 20a). The trail continues to climb up. At one point there is a single leg of about 6 meters and you’ll find a chain to help you along. You pass the area that is marked by a practice climbing wall and continue midway until you reach the “belvedere” (2200 meters) with a few meters in descent. A sign to the right indicates the beginning of the trail for mountain climbers. Continue downhill on the steep trail towards the right until you come to the first metal chain. Go down a sort of well gripped granite dihedral (III) and cross over to the next ridge. The difficulty level is slightly low. You continue by crossing the gravel debris left over by the rivers. Proceed along the hillside with a series of ups and downs until you reach a river formed by the Entreves glacier. You need to wade this trail but be very careful during the beginning of the season. The trail starts to climb up and you have the help of metal chains where necessary. After passing a granite ledge climb the east wall of the Mont de la Brenva which is easiest between the grassy parts. Once on the crest go up the ridge for about ten meters then go down the opposite side heading towards the belvedere (or lookout point) once again.

From the parking area you enter the forest where various geographical-tourist signs and a yellow trailmarker are placed. You follow the trail (trailmarker n. 16) until you reach a bridge that crosses the river. You continue to the left on the trail under the grassy but very dangerous outline of the Aiguille du Chatelet. The path continues to go up between bends until it reaches the rocky walls of the gorge of the Freney’s ice-falls to the right with splendid waterfalls.
From this point onwards you will find the fully equipped part with metal chains. The ascent is distinguished by a sort of leaning trail that is almost never vertical, more rocky than grassy with continuous II and III level passages. You should not underestimate this trail even with these slight difficulties. The itinerary is really fun, interposed by a few portions of path that, however, blends with the trail.
The ferrata’s exit is located on the northern hill of the Aiguille de Chatelet. Here the path continues upwards until it reaches the refuge. The view of the mont Rouge and Aiguilles de Peuterey mountain range is spectacular, specially if you continue onwards until you reach the ruins of the age-old Gamba shack (2630 meters).
To safely climb this via ferrata we recommend that you be accompanied by a mountain guide.

Via Ferrata delle Peredrette

It climbs up along the rock ridges above the terraced vineyards. Going up, the view opens out onto the entire valley, to reach a spectacular blade of rock overlooking the Dora Baltea. For the more daring, a short variant presents an extra emotion.

Shortly before the end of the Via Ferrata there is the virtual "log book"; by reading the QR code with your smartphone, you can connect to the web page to register your passage.

The iron-cabled path ends on a spectacular natural balcony among small potholes carved into the rock.

On the way back, follow the Preles valley among chestnut trees, large boulders and the characteristic “barme”, agricultural and pastoral shelters close to the rocks.
The iron-cabled path can be covered in about 90 minutes and the descent takes 45 minutes.

The equipped path does not present any particularly technical difficulties (EEA - PD); the most exposed passage is avoidable, but if followed, it must be done with suitable equipment: harness, hooking-up kit and helmet.

Falesia delle Ciliegie (Cliff of Cherries)

This is located at the top of the via ferrata, accessible by following the path along the deep Preles valley in about 50/60 minutes with a charming hike in the woods. The exposure is sunny, ideal to be done in spring and autumn.

The base of the cliff is wide and spacious, ideal for groups and families (however, be careful to keep an eye on the little ones given the presence of steep rock faces nearby).

There are 18 routes from 15 to 22 meters in length with levels of difficulty between 4b and 6a. Climbing on leaning rock faces and on sub-vertical ones.

Pomerou Pyramid

This is a small rocky structure located at the end of the first ridge of the Ferrata delle Peredrette (Iron-cabled route); it can be reached via a short path through the woods of Pomerou (10/15 minutes). The woods is strewn with boulders, which once served as a roof for the “barme” - the characteristic shelters of woodcutters and shepherds - and are now the playground for boulderers.

Eight routes between 12 and 19m in length are equipped, difficulty levels from 4a to 5c.
Climbing on a leaning rock face, facing north; the position still guarantees a good degree of sunshine.

At the base the area is spacious; however, it is necessary to keep an eye on the little ones so that they do not approach the edge of the mountainside below.

Masso di Reisen (Boulder of Reisen)
Surrounded by vineyards, in the Reisen area, this huge block of rock broke away from the walls of Preles years ago, coming to a stop among the vineyards.
The four faces allow for climbs of very different types and difficulties.
The south face has 5 remarkable lines about 10 m high with a difficulty between 5b/6b on a tended sub-vertical wall.
The east face is equipped with three 10/12m lines between 6b and 7a, vertical.
The north face has three lines of 6/7 m with a difficulty of 5b/c on a vertical scaled wall, while the west face is reserved for medium/high difficulty with two lines of grade 7c with rounded slab following the line of the boulder.
The surrounding flat area among the vineyards is ideal for families. Do not park cars in the spaces adjacent to the boulder (they are private).

N.B. – The cliffs and the iron steps are periodically checked and maintained, however, since these are routes on rock in a natural environment exposed to atmospheric and hydrogeological agents, they can undergo alterations in their state leading to dangerous situations.. Pay attention to the condition of the trails, the walls and the on-site equipment.
Those who follow the paths and equipped routes of the Balteo Climbing Park implicitly and consciously accept the risk inherent to the practice of these sports activities in a natural environment.

From the parking area of Pian Coumarial continue along the farm road for a few hundred meters, leaving the road that leads to the Coda refuge to the right and continue along the flat, traced out safety route which crosses to the left and follow it until it ends. Continue along the road that goes down for a bit until it joins with the one coming from Pillaz. Continue along the road until you arrive at lago del Vargno (Vargno Lake).
Before actually reaching the lake take the path of Col della Barma. You will arrive first at Lac de Lé Lounc, at the alp bearing the same name and then to Lac de la Barma where is the new mountain hut.
You continue to the right on path 2b that leads to the col Chardon where the ferrata begins.
You immediately climb a strengthened tower to the left with steps (every 30 cm) and handrails. You continue to go down and climb up on three main gendarmes. There are two short jutting parts of about 2 meters, but they are not difficult.
The last part of the ferrata looks alot like a fully equipped trail. The safety equipment consists of hemp ropes in good conditions. In the grassier parts its better to stay on the edge of the crest.
You continue downwards until you reach the passo della Capra (2414 meters) that joins with the normal path of the Oropa. You then continue to the right, going up, until you reach the Mont Mars peak (2600 meters).
From the top you go down on the opposite side with the help of hemp ropes until you reach the col Goudin superiore, with the view of the historic Carisey crest. You continue going down to the right on path 3a that leads to laghetto Gaudin (2083 meters) where you intercept the Alta Via numero 1. After a part along middle coast you start to ascend in a beautiful environment filled with mid mountain vegetation.
Once you’ve reached Serrafredda go to the left (trail 3a) crossing path 3 that goes down from col di Carisey. You continue downhill until you reach the delightful little cottages of Vercosa and then to alpe Chicail (1536 meters). You continue to go downhill on a wooded path until you reach the picnic tables and 50 meters to the right, going up, to the parking area.

From Staffal use the facilities that take to the colle Bettaforca and from the arrival station continue to the right along the high mountain dirt road. The itinerary soon becomes a path that crosses to the right (orographical left) of punta Bettolina passing the hill with the same name that re-joins the path that goes up to Staffal. After which you will also find the arrival path to the right of val d’Ayas.
The last part of the trail is an aerial crest that takes to the refuge, located on the plain that dominates the Verra glacier visible also from the Mezzalama refuge.
The rocky trail is simple and has handrails (a few years back it had chains). On the trail there is also a beautiful wooden bridge located a very sharp part, shortly before a small gendarme. Once at the refuge you will awestruck by the view of the 4000 meters of the Monte Rosa, particularly of the Castore that dominates the entire plain.

From the huge clearing go left where you will find a wooden sign indicating the ferrata to the right. Follow the mule track that goes up to the right. In 2 minutes you reach the wire ropes of the ferrata. You climb up a series of nailed plaques and footholds which are difficult because there are a few sheer drops. You reach a big ledge. Go towards the woods to the left, continuing vertically. You overcome plaques and hangingwalls and a slight dihedral of about twenty meters. You reach a metal ladder and continue on other plaques, with sheer falls until you reach a repeater. (It is possible to go down following a trail to the right, somewhat steep, that takes you to the bottom, losing altitude in the woods with numerous bends).
From the exit of the Vecchia (or Old) ferrata proceed to the left and you will reach a 35 meter bridge in only a few minutes. Cross it and reach the fastenings of the Nuove (New) ferratas:
the ferrata to the right (ED) begins with a 2 meter wall and a sheer plate with good footholds. Continue by crossing right with a 7 meter passage first in a sheer fall and then vertically. You can catch your breath for a few meters to then continue on the last 15 meter sheer wall that takes to the exit at the beautiful Tache mountain pastures.
- the ferrata to the left (ED) begins with a 5 meter wooden beam that goes down and connects with a Tibetan bridge of about a dozen meters. Go up a sheer plate overcoming a ledge and then continuing on a vertical wall. Then continue on another sheer wall that takes to the final exit that is well supported.

From the building continue right into the woods on trail 11 that soon becomes trail 10 which you will take until you come to a second fork. Continue right on a very steep trail until you reach the downhill path that leaves the old ferrata.
To safely cross the ferrata we recommend that you be accompanied by a mountain guide.

From the parking areas, located on the opposite side of the Lys river with regards to the facilities of punta Jolanda, you continue to walk towards the glaciers along the right orographical bank for about 50 meters. Once you have reached the playground to your left you can see the structure located in the field: it is a school of strengthened rocks, with a fence and a wooden statue. You climb up along steps slanting to the right, you cross and re-climb one last step, shortly reaching a platform. From there you jump off with a cable way that takes you to the field below. (You can go on it more than once or test yourself in the 9 climbing routes for beginners on real rocks with a few artificial grips).

For more information:
Scuola di Alpinismo Monte Rosa www.guidemonterosa.com
E-mail: info@guidemonterosa.com
Società Guide Alpine di Gressoney (Mountain Guides Society of Gressoney) www.guidemonterosa.info
E-mail: info@guidemonterosa.info